It's cheaper to look for a complete light on ebay similar to what you have. The lights are more plentiful than the lenses

For example http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PERKO-B ... 2207412328


The guy ran backwards all the time

don't go out after dark

[quote="tkhersom"]Jim: Thanks for your devoted service to the CCABC. We are a better club because of your involvement.

.[/quote]

yep

[quote="jbyers"]Just an FYI, Hillary on chat at Jamestown Distributers says it's OK



You believe Hillary?

jbyers wrote:Yeah I see a lot of those on eBay. Also some Stewart Warner ones too. None I have seen so far have the sensor tube however that goes through the transom.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-CHROME- ... 2294848191

[quote="jbyers" I just want to to make it look faux correct....... [/quote]
What many people used was an Airguide speedometer that was correct within 20mph

jbyers wrote:Yeah, I am not surprised Doug. I kind of like the original as much as possible. Of course that depends on price as well......

I don't believe a speedometer was original on that model.

Cheaper and more accurate to buy a gps

gallagh59 wrote:Thank you for the answer! I'm going to try it right now! Did CC publish an operating manual for 283 flywheel forward???? Where can I purchase one???

Why go to the expense of buying a manual. Jim Staib can answer all your questions

I use a small rubber squeegee at a 45 degree angle to the grain over an 80/100 grit sanding. I use burlap, almost immediately, to remove excess before the blush. I have never used CPES as it will penetrate the wood and IMHO I feel that if any sanding is done in succeeding years, one cannot get back ...

I discovered Sandusky 2260 Clear Sealer http://www.sanpaco.com/Specialty I have used most varnishes, this is the EASIEST for build. You can apply a coat every 3 hours....must have final 2-4 coats , of your favorite varnish.

I would go with Howard, hot iron on damp towel will pull out most gouges without delaminating varnish coats...I didn't see chocks

[quote="Jim Bell"]Will you be in Belleville Doug?[/quote]
Was in Midland on Sat.

Jim, you will be somewhat shocked with the content in this issue. BTW, will be in your area this Saturday.

Actually, it was mainly duct tape

Old Salem 1959 Hard Racing Copper Bronze Paint.

John, I'm now assuming this was a commander

Looking forward to see your boat and read about your experiences. Where are you located?

POR... Have used for wheels with great success

tkhersom wrote: The 4 is because she was set up to sleep 4 people.

Troy...All my cruisers were set up to sleep only 2 people

I have had boats hauled between MN, MI and WA. My only concern was the windscreen. The plasticizer in the shrink wrap will "melt" into the fresh varnish unless there is a soft cotton underlayment.

If there is an extra hole in your dash...this may be the one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ivalite-/162090 ... 25bd5a326a

tkhersom wrote:Amazon is $6.63 per quart with free shipping if you buy a case.

About the cost of the cheap wine I drink

boat_art wrote: the shaft is riding high in the log. In fact, it is so deformed that the shaft is probably rubbing the lip of the log which will cause major safety issues. Have a pro look at it.
Tom

Good Call

jfrprops wrote:.....this stuff looks fine .....at a distance....boat length or more!

John in Va.

John....that is the 20/20 rule. Twenty feet at 20mph.

Is the shaft straight?

Maybe its a good time to ask...Other than the UV, what is the difference between a sealer and varnish?

I like Sandusky Clear Sealer 2260. You can get 3 coats on in a day...but it must be finished with a few coats of a good UV varnish. Good luck. As John in VA sez...Go Varnishing

Captain Nemo wrote:Thanks for the input guys. Not you Doug .

Well you are going to get it. How fine did you sand the transom. Maybe the stain was sitting on the (fine sanded/polished)wood and the cut varnish moved it and didn't allow drying.
Remember Captain Nemo had a STEEL boat (Roamer)