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Workshop humidity
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- Posts: 91
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Workshop humidity
Can anyone advise me as to what per cent the humidity should be in my shop to keep the side and deck plank seams tight during our delightful New Hampshire winter months? The boat has eight coats of varnish on sides and decks so there is no bare wood exposed.
- Paul P
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- Location: Nashville, Tennessee, Cumberland River and Lake system
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Great question, I'm interested in the answer
Hey this is a great question, as I presently have a 1956 17' Chris Craft Sportsman Utility that has had the transom replaced and is now ready for stain and varnish. My basement is dry especially in this season, and I have noticed the planks are beginning to withdraw due to drying out. I will have to re-hydrate the boat before finishing it up, as I am reluctant to fill the open joints that have appeared in the transom for fear the force of swelled wood later on may cause a deformation in the finish or worse.
Any advice on how to add humidity to an old boat that has been in the shop for an extended amount of time would be appreciated, and also as you mentioned, humidity during storage of a finished boat is key too, to avoid craking of a perfectly good varnish job.
Regards, best,
Paul
Any advice on how to add humidity to an old boat that has been in the shop for an extended amount of time would be appreciated, and also as you mentioned, humidity during storage of a finished boat is key too, to avoid craking of a perfectly good varnish job.
Regards, best,
Paul
1956 17' CC Sportsman, 300-hp
1957 17' CC Sportsman, 95-hp
1966 20' CC fiberglass Sea Skiff, 210-hp+
1973 23' CC Lancer inboard project, 427/375-hp.
1966 38' CC Commander Express, 427/300-hp(2)
So many boats.........so little time.....but what a way to go!!
1957 17' CC Sportsman, 95-hp
1966 20' CC fiberglass Sea Skiff, 210-hp+
1973 23' CC Lancer inboard project, 427/375-hp.
1966 38' CC Commander Express, 427/300-hp(2)
So many boats.........so little time.....but what a way to go!!
- steve bunda
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- Location: wisconsin
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shop
I agree with Dave's comments, In northern wiscconsin things can get dry in the winter months. As an avivd snowmobiler and trail groommer we experience dry snow .In our boat shop we have a humidifier running 24/7, and only turn it off when the boats are tight.As a side note , working with wood all day most experienced woodworkers have a feel for the proper humidity conditions with their hands.steve
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Ed thats what I have started to do and I was amazed at how well that has worked. I think I will consider a humidifyer in the future because of the wood stove I use for heat in the shop.
Phil Jones
1948 US Plywood Executive Runabout Hull #1 "WeldWood"
1954 Racing Runabout R-496
1957 Deluxe Runabout D-17-2062
"MISBEHAVIN"
1948 US Plywood Executive Runabout Hull #1 "WeldWood"
1954 Racing Runabout R-496
1957 Deluxe Runabout D-17-2062
"MISBEHAVIN"
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workshop humidity
Thanks to all for posting info/ideas on my question on shop humidity. Here is is some history of the problem that I had of not enough humidity in my shop to keep the boat from drying out and planks opening up. First I am in New Hampshire where it is ****** COLD,my shop is fully insulated and has radiant floor heat and I keep the heat @50-55 deg.Last winter I found that in watching the humidity level drop to "0" with the outside temps -10 to plus 10 the side and deck seams started to open up,not good.So what do I do now, too frugal (New Eng thing)to buy a humidifier and I would also have to carry water from the house thru the **** snow, also not a good thing. I dug out the grandkids 6 ft wading pool and plastic turtle sandbox put them under the boat and filled them up from the 75' hose that I had to run from the house thru 30" snow at 10 deg.Results--poor- max 15-20% humidity .This year broke down and bought a humidifier ,results very good ,found that 50% seems to work well,no water on windows and I only run the humidifier on an on needed basis. Love these New Hampshiere winters!!!!!
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