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Proper Boat Lift

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Pete DeVito
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Proper Boat Lift

Post by Pete DeVito » Sat Jun 18, 2016 7:54 pm

Well we have talked a lot in the past about the correct trailer and bunks for our antique boats. Now I would like to hear from some of you about what you think is the best boat lift in your boat house for our boats. I am installing a new lift in my boathouse and before I charge out and create something different, I wanted to hear from you all on what you think is the best of the best in lifts.
Thanks
Pete
Past Project 1948 17' Deluxe
Past Project 1957 19' Capri
Future Project 1955 17' Special Sportsman

boat_art
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Re: Proper Boat Lift

Post by boat_art » Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:37 pm

In Red Wing Minnesota we have a large number of floating boathouses. Several of my customers have boats there. I dont think its too important which type because there is no jolting going on as in a trailer. Personally, I like the 2 lift ring ones because of the simplicity and ease of use. I also suggest they dont lift all the way out, just take up part of the load which keeps the bottom wet.
Tom

Handy in the winter too because we go under on the ice and the hull is free and clear.
http://www.boatartgallery.com
1956 CC Connie 47'
1959 Caulkins bartender
1965 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer
1953 Chris Craft Holiday
1941 Chris Craft Deluxe
Plus 8-12 customer boats at any time
God don't count the days spent messing around in wood boats.

Greg Wallace
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Re: Proper Boat Lift

Post by Greg Wallace » Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:02 am

In my opinion the ultimate is the platform type with bunks just like a good trailer. Suspended at four points (or more depending upon length). The "ACE" type "Pipe" hoist works great. Additional advantages to platform include improved access to boat when lifted and great for winter storage in boat house.
Greg Wallace 23 Custom 22166 former Chris-Craft dealer Russells Point, Oh.

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DennyDowning
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Re: Proper Boat Lift

Post by DennyDowning » Tue Jul 12, 2016 11:29 pm

I am creating a new lift for my 1929 22' Chris Craft Cadet.
I was using a center pipe winding type and lifting at the three factory lift points.
I should state that I am in a boathouse with wood beams.
I have two special wood LAM Beams fore and aft for attaching (hanging) the pipe.
Actually it works pretty well but after three years of lifting and hanging on the two rear lift points and the bow lift ring I can see the lift ring is distorting the keel. It is actually lifting and bowing the keel upward from the weight. The bowing in the keel is slight but evident and enough that I know the boat should be lifted with a cradle. The traditional cradle style with to bunks running fore and aft will not work for me because the midsection of the boat is much deeper (lower) then the bow or stern. It is a Chris Craft self planing hull and standard bunks simply will not work in my opinion. I looked up the winter storage points recommended by Chris Craft and the bunks used go from port to starboard (side to side) one in the front about where the windshield is and one in the rear between the engine and fuel tank. The instructions are very clear to be sure the bunks are directly under a frame and not between frames. Seems obvious but it is important.

The other issue I had with the center pipe winder lift was that the boat is so narrow there is not enough distance from the pulleys to the winder pipe and the 1/4" aircraft cable was binding next to itself and would even overlap itself. Specs are that the cable should not travel on an angle greater then 1-1/2 degrees. So the center winder was really not working as it should. Having said that I am going to a four point cradle lift but the center winder cable distance remains a problem. My solution is to go to a sidewinder style. This gives me plenty of distance for my cables to wind correctly.

Not sure what kind of boat you have but I recommend a 4500 pound hoist.

Finally, my LAM Beams are not in the correct position to lift in the Chris Craft recommend points. So again the traditional style cradle where the steel runs port and starboard will not work. My custom steel cradle beams run on both sides of the boat from bow to stern and the cradle bunks will sit across the two beams at the correct lift points. Hopefully, I will have this job done in the next week or so. I will try to come back and post some pictures. I am certain the cradle lift is the best way to go and the sidewinder I hope works out well. Final note about hoist size. My hoist is a 3000 pound lift which is just slightly to small for my boat so I have to make it a compound lift which effectively doubles the lift capacity to 6000 pound. Spend your time and research ~ then plan. It seems simple enoguh but there are lots of details to be careful with.

Denny

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JimF
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Re: Proper Boat Lift

Post by JimF » Wed Jul 13, 2016 7:55 am

IMG_0299.JPG
Here is what everybody on our lake uses. It is just a steel cradle with two bunks running fore and aft. The standard has just a 2x8 on edge but i have added a flat 2x4 on the top to give a wider surface. There is a cable at each corner running through a piece of PVC then over a pulley to the rotating pipe above the boat.
1930 Chris-Craft Model 100 20' "MOXIE"
1940 Chris-Craft Red and White 25' "Old Paint"
1946 Chris-Craft Sportsman 25' "CinCity"

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Pete DeVito
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Re: Proper Boat Lift

Post by Pete DeVito » Wed Jul 13, 2016 8:12 pm

Thanks all...
I researched a little more and I am going with a 6,500# electric hoist with aluminum framed cradle with carpeted wood bunks to match my trailer.
Past Project 1948 17' Deluxe
Past Project 1957 19' Capri
Future Project 1955 17' Special Sportsman

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