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Shoring For Big Sea Skiff
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Shoring For Big Sea Skiff
This year the marina that I winter store at is trying to get me to allow them to store my 35' Corinthina Sea Skiff with jack stands and skeg blocking instead of the three cross timbers and wood blocking to the hull. That would be two prop on each side on each beam. I'm not sure I like the jack stand method particularly because Sea Skiffs don;t have chines for the stan pads to block on to. They don't have hardfly any major frames to block under either.
So does anybody have an opinion?
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Jim Evans
So does anybody have an opinion?
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Jim Evans
Jim Evans
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I personally like poppets (jackstands) although I don't have a Sea Skiff. But I have seen them used on Sea Skiffs with good success. And with stands you can use more of them to distribute the load out over more areas.
If I were using them on a skiff, I'd probably concentrate on the outer engine stringers for the main loads and use several stands in other areas too.
You could even use several stands with a half sheet of thick plywood to span both the inboard and outboard engine stringers over the length of the plywood piece, on each side.
And with stands, you can always substitute and install one nearby, while you remove one to work on the bottom in that area.
If I were using them on a skiff, I'd probably concentrate on the outer engine stringers for the main loads and use several stands in other areas too.
You could even use several stands with a half sheet of thick plywood to span both the inboard and outboard engine stringers over the length of the plywood piece, on each side.
And with stands, you can always substitute and install one nearby, while you remove one to work on the bottom in that area.
Bret
1953 35' Commander "Adonis III"
1970 23' lancer project
1953 35' Commander "Adonis III"
1970 23' lancer project
- Captain Nemo
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Jim,
Really, jackstands scare the bejesus out of me . To me it just looks like too much potential for disaster especially on a soft chine hull. They look a little better when they are at least cross chained so they won't kick out the side. I have always taken the time to build a proper storage cradle for all my boats. IMHO sounds like the yard guys don't want to take the time needed to block her up. I say stay w/ the blocking.
-Mark
Really, jackstands scare the bejesus out of me . To me it just looks like too much potential for disaster especially on a soft chine hull. They look a little better when they are at least cross chained so they won't kick out the side. I have always taken the time to build a proper storage cradle for all my boats. IMHO sounds like the yard guys don't want to take the time needed to block her up. I say stay w/ the blocking.
-Mark
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.
How did the jacks work?
I also have a 35' Corinthian (1965). Bought last year and we are preparing to take out this fall to start to restore. Pretty new to this wood boat journey. Did you use the jack stands? How did they work? Any pictures? What is the best way to store my old boat for about 2 years to restore? It is going to be stored on a hard chat surface with a roof. Help and pictures will be great as it is not going to be stored at a boat yard so it will be closer so hopefully the 2 year plan doesn't turn into 4 years
What I'm considering is a minimum of 3 keel stands (timbers) and probably one towards the bow for good measure. Then at least 4 to 6 stands used for the engine stringers and then at least one set at the stern and 2 sail boat type at the bow. May be over kill, but would rather have a few extra so I can move things around as work is done. Suggestions?
Thanks for the help!!!
What I'm considering is a minimum of 3 keel stands (timbers) and probably one towards the bow for good measure. Then at least 4 to 6 stands used for the engine stringers and then at least one set at the stern and 2 sail boat type at the bow. May be over kill, but would rather have a few extra so I can move things around as work is done. Suggestions?
Thanks for the help!!!
Jim, boat yards use stands all the time to store large round hull sailboats on land. But, they chain them together so that they can't slide out, especially when it gets windy. I would think it should work on a Sea Skiff, too.
Frank
Frank
Frank Rupp
1959 22-foot Sea Skiff Ranger
283 Flywheel Forward engine
1959 22-foot Sea Skiff Ranger
283 Flywheel Forward engine
Cradle dimensions
Reviewing some docs I had purchased I came across the cradle dimensions. It shows only using two keep supports for the 1964 35' Sea Hawk and three on the 1962 34' Custom Corinthian. Not for sure if I totally understand the placement of the cradle (still new to this old wood boat). The doc is available from http://www.ccmanuals.crosswinds.net. I've also posted pictures of the pdf.
Can anyone help to explain exactly where I would measure from on the boat for the placement of the cradle? I'm assuming that M is the measurement from the transom. The doc states "Keel at transom", (forgive me for a possibly stupid statement as I haven't spent much time in the aft area as I've had many more priority tasks in other areas) does the keel run aft to the transom? Seems like the boat gets fairly flat aft the engines versus the V fore the engines.
Can anyone help to explain exactly where I would measure from on the boat for the placement of the cradle? I'm assuming that M is the measurement from the transom. The doc states "Keel at transom", (forgive me for a possibly stupid statement as I haven't spent much time in the aft area as I've had many more priority tasks in other areas) does the keel run aft to the transom? Seems like the boat gets fairly flat aft the engines versus the V fore the engines.
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CC Cruisers and jackstands
I've stripped and demolished a number of Chris Craft cruisers that were beyond saving and have a few I'm trying to bring back. I have no experience with cradles. My experience with jackstands/blocks is that you want a distribution between blocking the keel and the jackstands. Personally I like to have an approximately 60/40 weight distrubution. 60 on the pads and 40 on the keel. If all the weight is on the keel, over time the keel will want to fold over sideways. If all the weight is on the stands, over time you will get nice indentations in the hull where the jackstand pads are. When placing the stands, try to span as many frames as possible. Also, make sure to block up the bow. Otherwise you end up with a hull that has drooped (hogged) by the nose. Just my 2 cents.
Scott
Scott
- Captain Nemo
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Hi Warren, The two "M" measurements, the keel at transom would be the distance from the rear bolster on the cradle back along the centerline of the boat to the bottom of the transom. The chine corner at transom would be the distance back from that bolster to the rear corner at the chine which would be different from the centerline due to the curve of the transom if I'm interpreting the drawing correctly. I'm assuming your skiff has a curved transom.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.
How to level?
She is finally on the hard to start the process of inspection, repair, update, and etc. All seems to be good, BUT... What should be level or where do I measure to know that I don't have her cocked or leaning or one support to tall?? Any thoughts or suggestions?
I've used all Brownell stands including keel stands and the pressure on the screws seems to be about the same with the calibrated elbow .
I've used all Brownell stands including keel stands and the pressure on the screws seems to be about the same with the calibrated elbow .
64 Sea Skiff Corinthian 35'
Jack Stands
Well a Sea Skiff doesn't have any chines unlike all other CC cruisers. Typically I see jack stands placed at the chines. But, If you placed them at the turn of the bottom on a Sea Skiff I think you're in danger of fracturing the ribs. Remember, a Sea Skiff is like Basket; at 35 ft my Corinthian only has three or four major frames and they are forward of the engine room. The bottom support on a big skiff like mine is double steam bent oak ribs on 10" or so centers the length of the boat and double across the bottom from the outer engine stringer to the shear to both sides. Its a very flexible hull. I insist that the boat be shored on three cross beams under the keel (skeg) and supports under the bottom (NOT outside the turn of the bottom) that would be the normal place to set stands. I might be Kookie but stands are just cheap to use and a FG boat maybe that is all that counts (and, I don't care anyway). If you have a Richarson, Post, Pacemaker, Egg Harbor or Mathews wood hull you have the same issue.
Jim Evans
Thanks Jim,
I've got the support under the keel essentially where you are talking about. The outside stands are essentially where you are talking and only to steady as the support is on the keel. I most likely went a little over on the keel stand, but figure having a few extra doesn't hurt when you are on your back under 6+ ton. Thanks for suggestions!!
I've got the support under the keel essentially where you are talking about. The outside stands are essentially where you are talking and only to steady as the support is on the keel. I most likely went a little over on the keel stand, but figure having a few extra doesn't hurt when you are on your back under 6+ ton. Thanks for suggestions!!
64 Sea Skiff Corinthian 35'
Re: Shoring For Big Sea Skiff
I never posted any pictures of her on the hard. So here are a few pictures.
Sad part is it has been a couple years before I've been able to get started. Spent 18 months out of state. Back now and working to move to a garage with better facilities and warmer in the winter.64 Sea Skiff Corinthian 35'
Re: Shoring For Big Sea Skiff
Very nice looking skiff. The toughest obstacle to overcome is just getting started. Then just keep plugging away and it always get done eventually. Always a plus to find a good helper. Good Luck
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