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WI area - wood source
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WI area - wood source
Hey all, looking for recommendations on where people have gotten their wood from around the WI area.
I will need to pick up some wood to replace old side planks probably in the next month. Also what is the recommended mahogany?
According to Dan's book, looks like 6/4 resawn to 1/2" is appropriate.
Thanks in advance!
I will need to pick up some wood to replace old side planks probably in the next month. Also what is the recommended mahogany?
According to Dan's book, looks like 6/4 resawn to 1/2" is appropriate.
Thanks in advance!
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
Re: WI area - wood source
Philippine mahogany was originally used but may be difficult to source today. In actuality, Philippine mahogany isn't a true mahogany but a member of the lauan family. You may get lucky in finding some but do not use African or Honduran as the color and grain pattern will possibly look very different than the original and will not make a good match.
A possibly more readily available wood is dark red meranti which is also a member of the lauan family. It comes from islands further south of the Philippines. From what Don has stated in his forum, L L Johnsons Workbench In Southern Michigan has been a supplier.
A possibly more readily available wood is dark red meranti which is also a member of the lauan family. It comes from islands further south of the Philippines. From what Don has stated in his forum, L L Johnsons Workbench In Southern Michigan has been a supplier.
Last edited by Bilge Rat on Wed Jan 06, 2021 7:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
1966 Lyman Cruisette 25 foot "Serenity Now!"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"
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Re: WI area - wood source
Thanks, a bunch of searching looks like LL Johnsons is the closest "big" supplier around. I called and talked to Edensaw, they were great, but getting the wood all the way back here will be very expensive.
African is readily available, but i didn't figure that would be a good match for the boat.
African is readily available, but i didn't figure that would be a good match for the boat.
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
Re: WI area - wood source
Did you try McCormick at Milwaukee and Bryan?
Jim Staib
www.finewoodboats.com
1947 Penn Yan 12' Cartopper WXH474611
1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
1957 Chris-Craft 26' Sea Skiff SK-26-515
1968 Century 17' Resorter FG-68-174
www.finewoodboats.com
1947 Penn Yan 12' Cartopper WXH474611
1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
1957 Chris-Craft 26' Sea Skiff SK-26-515
1968 Century 17' Resorter FG-68-174
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- Jim Godlewski
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Re: WI area - wood source
This is from Don's site.chris.nackers wrote: ↑Mon Jan 04, 2021 5:00 pmHey all, looking for recommendations on where people have gotten their wood from around the WI area.
I will need to pick up some wood to replace old side planks probably in the next month. Also what is the recommended mahogany?
According to Dan's book, looks like 6/4 resawn to 1/2" is appropriate.
Thanks in advance!
"from a Mariners' Museum copy of a 1948 spec sheet for runabouts & sportsmen:
17' deluxe side planks 7/16"
deck planks 3/8""
I would measure your bottom topside plank and match that thickness so you can easily fair the side in. Just a suggestion...
1956 17 Sportsman CC-17-2310
1930 Model 100 7152
1930 Model 100 7152
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Re: WI area - wood source
Thanks... so i wonder if 4/4 would work then, although not much room for error. But certainly alot more waste with 6/4.Jim Godlewski wrote: ↑Sun Jan 10, 2021 8:37 pmThis is from Don's site.chris.nackers wrote: ↑Mon Jan 04, 2021 5:00 pmHey all, looking for recommendations on where people have gotten their wood from around the WI area.
I will need to pick up some wood to replace old side planks probably in the next month. Also what is the recommended mahogany?
According to Dan's book, looks like 6/4 resawn to 1/2" is appropriate.
Thanks in advance!
"from a Mariners' Museum copy of a 1948 spec sheet for runabouts & sportsmen:
17' deluxe side planks 7/16"
deck planks 3/8""
I would measure your bottom topside plank and match that thickness so you can easily fair the side in. Just a suggestion...
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
- Jim Godlewski
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Re: WI area - wood source
I don't think so. Tell the lumber sales person what your doing and your finish thickness, they'll tell you what you need. I would let them resaw the boards and thickness plane myself but that's your call.
1956 17 Sportsman CC-17-2310
1930 Model 100 7152
1930 Model 100 7152
Re: WI area - wood source
I am restoring a '48 Deluxe and it does have 7/16" Cedar planking on the bottom and 3/8" Mahogany on the topsides and deck. Conventional wisdom is that this was a result of wood shortage after WW2. The accepted standard for restoring these boats seems to be using 1/2" planks all around. The thinner wood leaves very little margin for sanding to fair and very shallow screw recesses for bungs. Some of my original topside planks are down to 3/16" thick in spots from factory fairing.
Just my 2 cents.
Denis D
Just my 2 cents.
Denis D
Denis
1948 17' deluxe runabout
1948 17' deluxe runabout
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Re: WI area - wood source
Dug in my research packet and found a scan of a the wood sizes and things.
Side planks are 1/2"
Bottom is 5/8"
Deck is 7/16"
Transom is 1/2"
At least that was original it looks like. I will still measure to see what was put on the 1st plank.
Side planks are 1/2"
Bottom is 5/8"
Deck is 7/16"
Transom is 1/2"
At least that was original it looks like. I will still measure to see what was put on the 1st plank.
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
- maritimeclassics
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Re: WI area - wood source
We have done a couple of 17' deluxe model Chris craft and always go to 1/2 inch planking. You are only talking 1/16th of an inch and it makes for a stronger boat and you don't have to worry about fairing if you frames are fair. I would go with 6/4 lumber re-sawn in half then plane to 1/2 inch thick. That is a standard way of doing things here. The only boat we didn't do that on was one of the Chris Craft race boats which were thinner frames and planking to scrub weight.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
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Re: WI area - wood source
Perfect, that was more or less my plan. Appreciate the input as always!maritimeclassics wrote: ↑Thu Jan 14, 2021 9:17 amWe have done a couple of 17' deluxe model Chris craft and always go to 1/2 inch planking. You are only talking 1/16th of an inch and it makes for a stronger boat and you don't have to worry about fairing if you frames are fair. I would go with 6/4 lumber re-sawn in half then plane to 1/2 inch thick. That is a standard way of doing things here. The only boat we didn't do that on was one of the Chris Craft race boats which were thinner frames and planking to scrub weight.
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
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Re: WI area - wood source
I guess the other thing i'm trying to figure out is how much wood and what lengths to order. In terms of what makes the most sense.
I don't think i need anything over 12 feet and all are under 7" wide except for that top strake.
I should check the drawings i got from Mariners, can't remember if the plank layout was in one of those.
I don't think i need anything over 12 feet and all are under 7" wide except for that top strake.
I should check the drawings i got from Mariners, can't remember if the plank layout was in one of those.
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
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Re: WI area - wood source
Hey all,
So i've made the decision that I will be replacing all the topside planks, just have found enough little things, it's not worth trying to save anything.
Was planning on going with red meranti, but if i'm replacing all the planks, should i be considering anything else?
-Thanks
So i've made the decision that I will be replacing all the topside planks, just have found enough little things, it's not worth trying to save anything.
Was planning on going with red meranti, but if i'm replacing all the planks, should i be considering anything else?
-Thanks
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
- Jim Godlewski
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Re: WI area - wood source
This should probably be answered by the professionals so I'm stimulating some feedback from them. I'm not familiar with a documented "plank layout" for these boats. As long as your current planks are not patched/cobbled and the end joints are all staggered, I would keep them the same as they are. I know on my boat which is older and longer than yours some of the topside planks have some side view curvature that may not be apparent so that needs to be taken into account for the new board width.chris.nackers wrote: ↑Thu Jan 14, 2021 10:20 amI guess the other thing i'm trying to figure out is how much wood and what lengths to order. In terms of what makes the most sense.
I don't think i need anything over 12 feet and all are under 7" wide except for that top strake.
I should check the drawings i got from Mariners, can't remember if the plank layout was in one of those.
My front upper planks seem to have the most side view curvature. Once the plank is off, flatten it out and take a straight edge from end to end to get an idea of how wide the new board needs to be.
I will draw a sketch of the side planks and document lengths and widths with extra for for trimming. Next I will make a list of boards needed keeping in mind resawing for bookmatching and thickness planning I will do the same for the deck boards as well. Those will be more obvious as to what widths you need. I'm attaching what my list looked like. This was for my 1930 20 footer that does not include the bottom or the interior. I hope this helps.
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1956 17 Sportsman CC-17-2310
1930 Model 100 7152
1930 Model 100 7152
- maritimeclassics
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Re: WI area - wood source
I have never seen a plank layout drawing that would be for your boat or any other that is detailed enough to make planks for a boat. I would go with red meranti mahogany for the material. The best way to get the measurements for the planking is to take the sides off. I am wondering if you have a new bottom on the boat? Usually you would do the bottom first. Feel free to give me a call at the shop and I could help you better that way if we talked it through. 231-486-6148
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2020 1:36 pm
- Location: Madison, WI
- Contact:
Re: WI area - wood source
That's helpful, thanks.Jim Godlewski wrote: ↑Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:24 amThis should probably be answered by the professionals so I'm stimulating some feedback from them. I'm not familiar with a documented "plank layout" for these boats. As long as your current planks are not patched/cobbled and the end joints are all staggered, I would keep them the same as they are. I know on my boat which is older and longer than yours some of the topside planks have some side view curvature that may not be apparent so that needs to be taken into account for the new board width.
My front upper planks seem to have the most side view curvature. Once the plank is off, flatten it out and take a straight edge from end to end to get an idea of how wide the new board needs to be.
I will draw a sketch of the side planks and document lengths and widths with extra for for trimming. Next I will make a list of boards needed keeping in mind resawing for bookmatching and thickness planning I will do the same for the deck boards as well. Those will be more obvious as to what widths you need. I'm attaching what my list looked like. This was for my 1930 20 footer that does not include the bottom or the interior. I hope this helps.
I didn't figure there was a layout that said exactly what the planks were. I wasn't sure if the staggering was specific to each boat or just a general look to avoid super long planks.maritimeclassics wrote: ↑Fri Jan 29, 2021 9:02 amI have never seen a plank layout drawing that would be for your boat or any other that is detailed enough to make planks for a boat. I would go with red meranti mahogany for the material. The best way to get the measurements for the planking is to take the sides off. I am wondering if you have a new bottom on the boat? Usually you would do the bottom first. Feel free to give me a call at the shop and I could help you better that way if we talked it through. 231-486-6148
'47 Sportsman/Deluxe Utility U-18-123
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