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Tank Cleaning

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Doug P
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Tank Cleaning

Post by Doug P » Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:58 pm

A friend suggested taking my fuel tank to a radiator shop to get cleaned out. Any other ideas? And what do you do with the old gas?

cenger
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Post by cenger » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:32 pm

I have been using POR-15 system to clean out old tanks with great success. First you wash the tank out with a marine wash (very good stuff), then prep the metal with an acid etching before pouring fuel safe paint into the tank. Kit comes with full directions and costs about $70.

http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=12

jahearne
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Post by jahearne » Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:43 pm

In my area, the local garbage company accepts hazardous wastes on certain days, so much per household as long as you show proof of residency. I save old gallon milk jugs or what have you.

Even when dealing with old cars, I've always used radiator shops to boil out gas tanks. Another option might be a steam cleaner or pressure washer.

Good luck,
John
John & Wendy

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JimF
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Post by JimF » Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:50 am

You don't say how old your boat and tank are or how big a tank it is. If it is a 20-30 gallon tank from the 1930's and made of galvanized steel, the gunk in the bottom may be the only thing blocking pinhole leaks. I used to have tanks boiled out but quit for a few reasons. It became expensive ($150) and then the shops stopped doing it. I also had a few tanks that had leaks that weren't discovered until after boiling so that was money wasted. Now I recommend to all my clients that they purchase a new aluminum tank built to Coast Guard specs. Three to four hundred dollars from Rayco or probably others and will outlast us all.

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:25 am

Jim, I agree with you it is not worth the trouble to get the tank cleaned or clean it yourself. Then try to use an acid to etch the metal and wonder if that was enough to get the coating to stick properly. I have heard stories of that stuff coming off after a few years only to become a big mess in your entire fuel system. I used to have all my fuel tanks boiled or cut open when the price to do so was much cheaper. But it seems that it has gotten very expensive in the last few years. Now unless the tank looks in real good shape I just call Raco and get a new one. The piece of mind to the restorer and the owner is definitely worth the money and you are right it will be the last tank we will have to put in that boat.
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Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

jfrprops
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Post by jfrprops » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:47 am

Last two posters are right on. Saving a steel tank is not worth it. Just getting tanks OUT is a big job, why risk doing it twice when the steel messes up later on?
Putting new, exact repro alum. tanks in my cruiser was the single best money I ever spent on her BY FAR.
Couple that with new state of the art rubber fuel lines and racor filters....good to go ....
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

mstover
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Fuel Tanks-fiberglass

Post by mstover » Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:32 pm

I have a retangular shaped fiberglass fuel tank in the 57' CC runabout that I just purchased. I don't know when it was installed or if it worked OK. I know that it isn't original equipment, but I'm wondering if it would be worh my while to order a new Aluminum Tank. Are there any advantages to the Fiberglass tank, and would there be a big penalty from the judges if entered in a show. I would appreciate hearing any comments. P.S.... What is the web site for the company that makes the Aluminum Tanks?

Thanks
MStover

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Chad Durren
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Post by Chad Durren » Sat Feb 28, 2009 3:02 pm


undersee
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Post by undersee » Sat Feb 28, 2009 4:24 pm

Mstover
Just helped a buddy change the fuel tank on his Boston Whaler.
Can’t show you in writing, but have heard in many different circles, that fiberglass tanks are getting week and delaminating because of this Ethanol.

Not sure if this is an old wife’s tale or not!!!!

What size CC do you have? Mine is a 1958 17' sportsman and it’s equipped with a round tank about the same size as 4 5 gallon buckets laid end to end.

If you want a picture let me know, I'll take one in the morning.

Lucky

undersee
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Post by undersee » Sat Feb 28, 2009 4:43 pm

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jfrprops
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Post by jfrprops » Sat Feb 28, 2009 6:10 pm

NOT an old wives tale, Ethanol DOES harm fiberglass tanks, they will degrade and sort of sweat gas, then seep, then??? Remember it is the fumes that blow up, so the tank does not even have to be leaking actual liquid gas. Bigger boats that take on fuel at Marinas, may be at less risk they have Ethanol for sale, but trailer boats that fill up on the road at gas stations are in peril.
Don't mess around with gas tanks, don't shortcut, if you are doing a restoration, get new tankage, plenty of places can duplicate your tank exactly in Monel or alum. You could even get a plastic sort.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

djeller
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Tank Cleaning

Post by djeller » Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:00 pm

Not worth the effort.
www.racotanks.com

jfrprops
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Post by jfrprops » Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:29 pm

exactly what is not worth the effort?
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

DeanS29
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Post by DeanS29 » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:16 pm

Doug, judging from your avatar you've got a pretty old boat. Another issue the guys on the forum brought to my attention was getting rid of the old bottom feed original tank for safety reasons, and replacing the tank with a top feed. With a bottom feed tank if you get a leak anywhere in your fuel system the whole tank ends up in your bilge. Now I just need to follow my own advice. Dean

mcisaac inc
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Post by mcisaac inc » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:02 pm

:D I don't let a restoration leave my shop without a new cg approved gas tank,with anti siphon valve, bilge blower, and cg approved gas line.I just had Rayco make a 33 gallon tank for a project, it was 435.00 including shipping, well worth it...................markmcisaac

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