Boat Buzz

Are there any better pictures out there of the cracked glass panels, either 5 or 6 gauge?

I have all the pictures that the MM has as well as a few more I collected. I don't have all of them scanned but I can do that if people are that interested.

My only thought is that the 1939 catalog shows both a 5 and 6 gauge panel, but they arent that clear and appear somewhat different. A clear copy of each might demonstrate better what they are actually like.

Hello Don J.

donj wrote:According to conrad's book, that number series is the 19' custom...there are not a lot of those pre-barrelback customs out there.

Though it is but for a few tweaks and I call it one, Every official reference I have seen to date calls it a simple model 27.

The '35 seems particularly hard to find. I know of 2 after years of trolling. One, in No. Ca is the identical to as mine but the guys got no email and forgot how to snail mail.

donj wrote:...two ways; one, that all engines in cc are counter rotation as to tach, or that only cc engines are thus. I think they thought of the hercules, as modified by cc, as a cc engine. Technically, a chrysler engine, could be considered a non cc engine. Who knows?

Actually I saw a ccw tach on a '35 custom with and a factory installed ford flathead V8. Maybe my Chrysler engine tach output is just revered.

donj wrote:... these mid thirty's boats were a lot plainer than what followed. But I personally like a more straightforward classic, design.

Me to, they have a certain depression era austerity to them. Stylistically a little primitive looking...like a model A.

Funny it was just about this time that famed Industrial (product)Designer Raymond Lowey was "streamlining" everything in sight. Seems CC was a little late to the game.

Fine with me.

donj wrote:If you could email me those willys dash pictures separately, i would like to send them on to the willys people for comment.

Sure you can PM me with your email, I'd be happy to BUT, If you click the photos here they will pop up larger in a new window.

1)Rt. click the blown up image
2) a drop down menu will appear at your curser,
3)From it select "save image as"
4) up pops a little window with all your folders on you drive.
5) navigate around with the "browse" button to whatever folder you ant my documents,boat, whatever.
6) Push save and it yours.

Works on almost any web site with or without the blow up feature. I snag references pictures from every where this way.

Regards, PK

To Don Ayers, i still think it would be interesting to post pictures of the 5 and 6 gauge panels. I notice in the old cc catalog it seems to show a key in the lower center of the 6 gauge panel, but none of the other pictures in this thread show that aspect? Wonder about that?

Don J;

That is an easy one. The six unit panels had the key in the center and two switches up until mid 1939 production. So from 1932-mid 1939 the key and switches were in the panel. For what ever reason SW changed the panel and that is when CC moved the key and switches over to the right side. The barrel back on the floor that got the change was 48580.

thanks, don , very interesting.

Pls keep in mind that I am just talking about the six unit SW panel.

And just look at those signatures on the above document! AW MacKerer, W.S. Pickell, J.C. Smith.

All mentioned in a fascinating and entertaining book "View From the Bilge," written by Don MacKerer. This is a must have book for every enthusiast, and it is available on our web store at www.chris-craft.org/store

Signed and unsigned copies are available!!!

Now, back to dashboards...

Aside from the instrument panel, this memo seems to suggest that new switching and keying for the 17' deluxe model, among others, starting in jan. 39. I had assumed that the dash arrangement was standard on the entire run of the 37-39 deluxes. We know of course that there was the switch to independent gauges, etc. starting with the 1940 "barrelback" 17' models. Does anyone have a photo of the 39 deluxe dash after the switchover? Apparently, they got away from the clum switch that combined the key and deck light switches in one device.

I'll find one or 2 pics of above if someone will post a pic of one of those itty bitty 2" cleats used on mid 30's 19' customs.

Quite a deal (grin)

PK

here is a shot that picks up both of the front ones. If you zoom in on the port one you get a pretty good profile. I think the 19's used the same on as my 17. I dont have anything that is a real close up. Check out al schninnerer's california classic boats catalogue. I am sure he makes reproductions.

O.K Don

Fair 'nuff. I'm on the case. Have some obligations but should have the goods to night.

Regards, PK

In the meanwhile, PK, I will post a picture of mine.(38 deluxe). This is the layout of the 17' deluxe apparently from 37 thru jan. 39. Relatively straightforward with the open glove box, instrument panel, choke, steering wheel, clum swith containing the start lock and lights, to the right of the steering wheel, and finally the beehive starter button. It is interesting to note that the centers of the choke nob, clum switch, and starter button are not placed in horizontal alignment. This is the original dash.

Hello Dons,

As promised, Attached is is the best I could round up of the '39 CC DELUXE runabouts. Unfortunately the 17' deluxe's are and camera shy (Custom envy ?)so my comparison here is of a 16' to a 17''39'deluxe.

As to the 15.5' Deluxes, I don't no if they should even be included in this roundup as they resemble a typical Deluxe in name and some chrome only. However they do show a continuum of the disappearance of gauge panel for independent guages across the line.

As for what ever else you can draw from these, I'd download the image and put it in a photo editor and zoom way in, play with brightness and contrast etc.

Regards, PK



Note: Once you blow this up in "postimage" (automatic default), you can blow it up further by clicking on it a few times...experiment.

thanks PKfor the images. However, the angle on the 39 17' deluxe is such that all i can see is the glove box and the gauge panel. Any shots of the other side so we can see what the push pull switch and the key cylinder look like?

Unfortunatly Don that's the only pic I could dig up. Like I said, that model seems to be camera shy. I can try to enhance the image but it's pretty poor quality.

I'm having the same prob with my 35 custom. I just can not find a good reference pics for the dash. It to is just unlike any other.

Regards, Pk

thanks, Pk, i have emailed al scinnerer and he makes the reproduction push pull swith the replaces the portion of the clum switch dealing with lighting, and the ignition key arrangement that replaces the other part of the clum switch. When he emails pix of them to me i will post them. the next question will be where did they go on the dash.

In the meanwhile, I think that Herm rowland is the man with the original '35 custom if you need a picture of that dash.

I wonder about the 39 17 foot that you had a picture of. It has a 4 spoke steering wheel so we know it is not original in at least that detail. always makes one wonder when you see something prominent that is not authentic how much wt you can put on the other elements of the boat.

Don A, by any chance do you have a pix of the late 39 17 foot dash?

we will keep pecking away at this till we find the pix. I checked the 1939 cc catalogue and it doesnt have a dash picture in it for the 17.

Hi Don,

Ya I've heard of Herm and wonder how approachable he is and if he'd be one to want to want to bother indulging me. I have a fax number and address for him but no email.

Ny boat was made just 18 Customs after his and has the same engine (first I've found). I'm sure the correct and unique '35 dash to. Just like the 17 deluxe, it's the same little details I'm missing. Someone updated the my dash to something like a '36.

Regards, PK

Interesting information on the change over in jan. 39 for the replacement of the clum switch on the 17' deluxe. Attached are pictures from Alan Schinnerer of california classic boats. He reproduces the ignition key part that replaces that aspect of the clum (U152). The second picture is of the push pull switch that replaces the navigation light switch aspect of the clum switch, U156, and an original for comparison. The third picture shows a 1940 19ft. dash, which al thinks shows the same arrangement as the above switches after the change for the 17's. I also talked to Dave Lobb of NW Classic Boat restoration, and although he believes the 2 pieces were put on the right side of the steering wheel, he doesnt recall off the top of his head exactly where. He will try to dig up a picture of one, if he has one,that should answer this question definitively. However, if anyone else out there has a pix of the late 39 17' dash, it would be great for them to post it.

(for some reason I can't upload the 3d pix on this response. will try it on the next response.

here is the picture of the 40 19ft. custom dash showing location of switches.

I dont know where the picture of the ignition key went since it appeared to be successfully uploaded yesterday, but here it is again.

Where did you find that ignition switch Don? I neea key and barrel for my clum.

Regards, PK

PK, this will not fit a clum switch. This is a stand alone start lock reproduced by al schinnerer, that replaced the key function once cc got rid of clum switches.

See my reference under clum key in electrical system section of the buzz for the only contact i know of who still may be around and can get you one. Perhaps there are others out there but I am unaware of who they might be. I think he picked them up at old car swap meets as the clum switch was used in a number of 30's autos. Finding these odds and ends is half the fun of restoring one of these old boats. An expensive adult easter egg hunt.

I only know of two people working on reparing them; mark clawson here in wa. and pat powell back in indiana, i think. But unless they have some extras now, you would need to furnish the cylinder and keys, along with the rest of the switch. You might check with them and see. they both advertise in classic boating, and the acbs, and brass bell mags.

The alternative is to get a full reproduction clum switch from al schinnerer who does a very good job with them. They are not cheap, however.

Hi Don,

I guess I was looking at the lock for it's barrel(?) & key. Could the barrel and key be extracted from the housing and transplanted in a clum?

In addition to the thrill of the chase(parts), I improvise. Part of my stock and trade is fabricating models and prototypes from scratch. In fact I have made parts for Al.

My clum was $14 & out of god knows what. Its correct in just a few key areas but but those are accurate and hard to reproduce, the wrong stuff is easy to fab. When I'm done, you shouldn't know the dif.

Thanks for the tips on the clum parts guys.

Regards, PK

I am doubtful. It would be dumb luck if it happened to fit but who knows? you could always try.

I took it apart waiting for my computer to reboot.
The thing is really in remarkably good shape inside. I don't think I need a new barrel. The barrel I've got is quite a joke by design. No problem making a key for it.

Regards, PK

glad to hear it. why dont you post some pictures of a dissambled clum switch so people can get an idea of what is inside?

I am not sure if anyone makes a reproduction clum switch key blank. I have a couple that are in remarkable shape with the original lettering, etc. I will take a picture of that and post it.

DonJ,

At long last. Taken with different cameras on different days, more than you ever wanted to see.

As you can see, despite the sad exterior, the inside is spotless. I'm leaving the barrel 'till I can attack it all in one sitting, I have an awful habit of loosing little bits and bobs. But I expect the same simplicity in the barrel.

This thing dissembles and assembles as quickly as you can say "clum". Very simple and clever mechanism. To what ends though I haven't a clue.

Also attached is a composite of my smaller faced Clum and an Original CC Clum.If it not obvious, mine will transmogrify with an outer disk'. $14 vs. $200-500, I can afford to put a little time into it's make-over.

Regards. Peter