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5200 bottom
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5200 bottom
Now we have the boat over And saw horses under the stringers what are we supposed to level? Flat part of plannig surface to the ground? Sheer level to ground or chine?k
1957 Chris Craft Continental
CL-18-271
CL-18-271
- parroteyes
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:06 pm
- Location: Ohio
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Re: 5200 bottom
I leveled the stringers, top side.
Everything else will be moving as you replace frames, etc.
As built the boats are not square and level nor symmetric.
Everything else will be moving as you replace frames, etc.
As built the boats are not square and level nor symmetric.
Hull # 16-R-OX2 (March 1946)
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
Re: 5200 bottom
Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you have a stationary platform or on casters?
1957 Chris Craft Continental
CL-18-271
CL-18-271
- parroteyes
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:06 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Contact:
Re: 5200 bottom
Casters. I built the internal supports extending from the stringers to beyond the top sides inside the boat before I flipped it. The 2X4s from the stringers up (before the flip) were all the same length and butted on the stringers. I used 6. I mounted 6 casters to those, there is additional framing of course, but the idea is that those equal length "legs" for the stand are the main support for the boat on the stand. The 6 casters are mounted to the 6 vertical 2X4s and then the boat was flipped.
Now the stringers are as level as your floor. Not perfect but close. Using a laser level, I rolled the boat around until I found a placement on the floor where the stringers were level. I painted dots on the floor at the casters. Whenever I needed the boat to be dead level, I rolled it to those marks.
Now the stringers are as level as your floor. Not perfect but close. Using a laser level, I rolled the boat around until I found a placement on the floor where the stringers were level. I painted dots on the floor at the casters. Whenever I needed the boat to be dead level, I rolled it to those marks.
Hull # 16-R-OX2 (March 1946)
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
- parroteyes
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:06 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Contact:
Re: 5200 bottom
Then I found out how far off the boat had been as built.
Using pipe clamps I pulled the chines back to their landings. (After removing the bottom)
I checked to be sure the stringers were dead level with the laser level.
The stem was rotated clockwise and off about half an inch over all.
At midship the chine landings were off about half an inch counter clockwise.
The width from centerline to the chines midship differed by 5/8"
The height of the chine landings midship differed by a little less than 1/2"
Later, when I was replacing frames, I found that the starboard and matching port frames were not identical so the variations noted were not due totally to age and swelling. The boat was never perfectly symmetrical.
While I could and did make the port and starboard frames identical, there was nothing I could do to straighten the stem.
As you go along doing the best you can to make the boat level, square and symmetrical, eventually you'll have to decide between "fair" and perfect measurements. Choose fair.
The boat itself will tell you how it has to be to look and work well.
Using pipe clamps I pulled the chines back to their landings. (After removing the bottom)
I checked to be sure the stringers were dead level with the laser level.
The stem was rotated clockwise and off about half an inch over all.
At midship the chine landings were off about half an inch counter clockwise.
The width from centerline to the chines midship differed by 5/8"
The height of the chine landings midship differed by a little less than 1/2"
Later, when I was replacing frames, I found that the starboard and matching port frames were not identical so the variations noted were not due totally to age and swelling. The boat was never perfectly symmetrical.
While I could and did make the port and starboard frames identical, there was nothing I could do to straighten the stem.
As you go along doing the best you can to make the boat level, square and symmetrical, eventually you'll have to decide between "fair" and perfect measurements. Choose fair.
The boat itself will tell you how it has to be to look and work well.
Hull # 16-R-OX2 (March 1946)
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
Engine 1B #26564
That's me 1950 - already a CC lover!
Re: 5200 bottom
Excellent description of what I do Parroteyes. Not a soul on earth can spot variations like this after its done and the boat functions well without fighting the framework. Fair is far more important than perfect symmetry.
http://www.boatartgallery.com
1956 CC Connie 47'
1959 Caulkins bartender
1965 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer
1953 Chris Craft Holiday
1941 Chris Craft Deluxe
Plus 8-12 customer boats at any time
God don't count the days spent messing around in wood boats.
1956 CC Connie 47'
1959 Caulkins bartender
1965 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer
1953 Chris Craft Holiday
1941 Chris Craft Deluxe
Plus 8-12 customer boats at any time
God don't count the days spent messing around in wood boats.
Re: 5200 bottom
Thank you Parroteyes, I've printed your comments and added them to my restore folder to follow once I have the bottom off.
Regards, Dadio
Regards, Dadio
1957 Chris Craft Continental
CL-18-271
CL-18-271
Re: 5200 bottom
That's another cool thing about hand made wooden boats. No two are exactly the same even if they look the same. Each one has a unique personality.
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