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From Archive: CPES Coverage by John McConnell

Framing, planking and fairing. Repair, or reconstruction. If it's hull related, you'll find it here.

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From Archive: CPES Coverage by John McConnell

Post by Club Archivist » Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:26 pm

I have posted my winter project and looking for advice of the refinishing of the bottom.

http://www.chris-craft.org/images/boatbuzz/DSCN2149.JPG

As a matter of interest the red stripe is the original color with the boat, unlike most that had the blue stripe.  I will be working with the marina "wood smith", not sure what his title is but they are allowing me to apprentice with him.   We will be replacing about 20 ft. of chine on both sides, 6-7 bottom planks and a couple of transom planks.  I want to use CPES on the bottom before it is repainted.   I will be sanding and painting the hull but not completely removing all of the paint.
My questions are: 

1) does all of the old bottom paint have to be removed down to bare wood,

2) what is the application method of CPES and 3) what is the coverage per gallon?  I want to apply the CPES to all of the wood below the water line, should this paint be completely removed also?
 
The boat will be pulled into a shed in the first week of December so it will be out of the wind and Texas cold.   I assume that all surfaces of the new planks should be coated with CPES prior to placing.  Any other advice from the group is appreciated. 
 
For a first time wood boat owner, maybe I should have started a little smaller with a runabout.   
 
John McConnell
'67, 40' Connie
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From Archive: CPES Coverage by Steve Smith

Post by Club Archivist » Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:33 pm

Well......let me say this about that:

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer [CPES]coverage will be on the order of 50-200 square feet per gallon, depending on the condition of the old wood. New mahogany will naturally yield better coverage due to less absorption.

You can learn more about absorption on the new MultiPrime section of the main company web site, at www.smithandcompany.org/mprime .

You don't need to remove mathematically *all* of the old paint, as CPES will soak around small flakes of paint down in the wood. I'd recommend that the smallest dimension of any remaining flake of paint be less than 1/8 inch.

Application is best done with a roller , and someone long ago posted pictures of a rig they made with a roller pan that sort of fit up against the bottom, to catch the runoff from the roller applying CPES to the overhead surface. The idea with vertical or sloping-upwards surfaces is to hold the wet roller against the surface and roll slowly upwards, forcing out a puddle of CPES which rests at least momentarily against the surface. You want to apply it wet on the surface, working a small area until no more soaks in there, and then move on to the next area. I don't recommend spraying as it should go on the wood in the formulation that came out of the cans, and spraying evaporates a portion of the solvent formulation, which will give not-the-best results.

Hope that helps.

Please read all the web sites in my signature line for more information.

Steve Smith
[email protected]
www.woodrestoration.com
www.fiveyearclear.com
www.smithandcompany.org
www.smithandcompany.org/mprime/
http://www.lignu.com/lignu/tech_info/tech_info.php
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