Bung Glue

tuobanur · Post by **tuobanur** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:59 pm

Why should you not use epoxy to glue bungs?

Peter M Jardine · Post by **Peter M Jardine** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:13 pm

Mostly because it's not necessary. Varnish is enough. The plug is held in by tension, the varnish adds enough 'glue' to keep it there.

When you epoxy in a plug, you have a glue line around the plug, which may interfere with finishing. It is harder to sand the plug, because the epoxy is harder than the wood, and last but not least, if you ever want to get the fastener out, the slots are full of epoxy.

tuobanur · Post by **tuobanur** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:19 pm

Has anyone ever had bungs come out that were varnished in and is this the most common method?

rpccc43 · Post by **rpccc43** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:28 pm

On a related note...on cruisers the bungs under the painted surfaces were some kind of filler, any idea what the modern equivalent would be? I have been using epoxy with microfill material but would agree that its' probably not a good idea.

Randman

Chad Durren · Post by **Chad Durren** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:56 pm

Famowood

Don Ayers · Post by **Don Ayers** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 2:43 pm

PL Fix

Wood Commander · Post by **Wood Commander** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:34 pm

Kirby's white lead paste.

jfrprops · Post by **jfrprops** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:20 pm

As to the goop recommendations in re Cruisers...all the recommendations are OK, but I use Smith's Fillit. For everything.

John in Va.

tuobanur · Post by **tuobanur** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:16 am

Thanks guys, think I will try the Famowood, seems to be recommended the most (Don D.uses it) and as tempting as the varnish method is, I'm not 100% that it will last.

tph · Post by **tph** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:15 am

Terry,
The standard glue for plugs in most restoration
shops is Wellwood plastic resin glue. It's a powder
mixed with water, leaves no glue line.
tom

tuobanur · Post by **tuobanur** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:35 pm

Well Tom, decided to take your suggestion, found some weldwood plastic resin at a local hardware store that I frequent and figured I give it a whirl.
Again, thanks to all.

Theurkauf · Post by **Theurkauf** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:52 am

One of the huge advantages of traditional boat building techniques, including batten seam used on CCs, is the ability to make repairs down the road. This requires bung removal, so you don't want to fuse them to the plank with expoxy. I use waterproof wood glue (Titebond II).

Captain Nemo · Post by **Captain Nemo** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:38 am

I use the Titebond also and, I mix in a little mahogany dust in it to help even out the stain.

Jim Godlewski · Post by **Jim Godlewski** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:55 pm

tuobanur wrote:Well Tom, decided to take your suggestion, found some weldwood plastic resin at a local hardware store that I frequent and figured I give it a whirl.
Again, thanks to all.

Don's book calls for for this stuff. There's even a piture of it on page 171. We used it with no issues.

Kerry Price · Post by **Kerry Price** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:21 am

I used the Weldwood Plastic Resin glue on my own restoration and frankly would not recommend it. It has a light reddish brown color to it and while it blends fairly well with the dark stained areas it did leave some very annoying rings that are quite visible on the blond areas. These did not show up until after I had already bleached and applied the natural filler stain and put some varnish on the boat. Be for warned and use this product at your own risk.

David M · Post by **David M** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:57 pm

I've used mahogany colored 5200, blends in very well. Sharp countersinks and tapered plugs help too.

jfrprops · Post by **jfrprops** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 10:25 pm

I disagree with the Mahogany 5200...that stuff looks purple to me in every application it always seems more than a shade off whatever I am trying to match. Plus, if you use it...you will NEVER< EVER, get that bung out without tearing something up..bad....

John in Va.

Bung Glue

Bung Glue

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