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Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Framing, planking and fairing. Repair, or reconstruction. If it's hull related, you'll find it here.

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:34 pm

Going to try again to post a pic. I am slowly making process fabricating and dry fitting the outer planks. I can't beat the cold weather in time to use adhesives so I am satisfied to dry fit, gap and pre-drill so all will be ready come April. Over the winter I will finish all the side planking, finish bolting the chines to the frames, and get the solid planks prepared for the transom. Hopefully I will soon be able to provide more complete reports of the project. I will put up some pics on the Facebook site, but won't give up on Boat Buzz.

Pic rejected again....sigh. I will post on Facebook
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:31 pm

Another test
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533056303.767168.jpeg (21.54 KiB) Viewed 4593 times
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:33 pm

o
Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Don Danenberg
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by Don Danenberg » Sat Dec 02, 2017 2:11 pm

Your post "Another Test" on Dec 1 2017, DID produce a photo here, boat at the dock.

I even figured out how to change the page from the first page to the 6th page (latest) by scrolling all the way down and changing photo views from 'ascending' to 'descending'.
However, I can't figure out how to view pages 2 thru 5?

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:39 pm

Looks like we are back in the Buzz business. I will have to make sure my photos are <3mb, but everything else seems good. I will try to go back and repost the photos that are missing. I successfully restored a pic on page 5. I will do the others later because I am being bumped off the computer. Here is a test of a pic from last year with side planks dry fit. 1.5mb. My heartfelt thanks to the folks that sorted this out.
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M2940003.JPG
yabbaa dabba dooo.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sun Feb 04, 2018 12:08 pm

test changing the mb's of the pic.... oooooooooooooh...its working.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sun Feb 04, 2018 2:43 pm

Here we go with my first substantive post since the new and improved Boat Buzz. I do like the new format.

Although I have showed how I installed the inner bottom and a few outer planks in earlier posts, I thought I would show one installation start to finish and how far I have gotten before winter shut me down. The text with the pics pretty much describe everything. Stbd is at the same stage. I number the planks and the one in this sequence is P,1,5. That means Port,1st from bow, 5th from keel.
Attachments
IMG_1206.jpg
Stbd dry fit. S, 1,5
IMG_1218.jpg
This is how I secure the bow end of the plank before using the prop gizmo to lift the back end up snug. A few taps with a big rubber mallet and it slides into place (after several tries and subsequent planing, which is to be expected). The 1088 meranti plywood bends easily and won't split.
IMG_1219.jpg
First try. Had to do some planing as usual to get a good fit. Took about 30 minutes and several attempts to get it right.
IMG_1220.jpg
This gizmo works like magic as I said before. I can position a plank in minutes, tap it into place and tack it up with dry wall screws for dry fitting. At this point I put a small wood block between the gizmo and the plank, which pushes the plank up snug. The shiny screws you see are the temporary ones used to fasten the inner bottom until the adhesive cured.
IMG_1221.jpg
Dry fit and tacked at the bow awaiting the rest of the planks, gapping and pre drilling. Then the whole lot comes off for sealing and adhesive before the final installation.... oh my!
IMG_1222.jpg
After fastening.... dry fit of course.
IMG_1223.jpg
Close to final dry fitting. I have already made up the next four planks (2,5 is over 18' long!). Scarfing is a neat skill I have learned as the result of this project. I am almost mediocre at it now.
IMG_1224.jpg
Dry fit complete. Proper gapping will be done in the spring. I intend to use my 3 3/8" circular saw to run along the seams to quickly even them up while they are still dry fit.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Sun Feb 04, 2018 3:21 pm

router might be better than the say???? imho John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:19 pm

I would agree, but I am terrible with a router. I will try to make up a bit guide and experiment (on scrap). I have used the saw to clean old seam material and it worked fast and accurately. I do appreciate the advice.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Sun Feb 04, 2018 6:04 pm

Robertpaul....that was not advice....as I too am terrible with a router...just seems like how most of the more skilled than us guys do it. I have one of those small circular saws, plunge feature, and it would do that job well as you suggest. I can burn up a router bit and tear out the end of the workpiece with the worst of them. Don't even own a router anymore because of that.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Tue Feb 06, 2018 12:27 pm

Before Buzz was fixed I posted pictures on the Facebook site showing the work I was doing to repair the front window frames that hold the glass. I want to include the story in this record, so I apologize for covering old ground.

The fabrication of the corner joints at the factory employed dado joints, glue and long stainless steel screws. The screws were set in from the sides of the frames by way of a very deep countersink, about 1 1/2 inches. Once fastened the countersink hole was plugged with a plug that was at most 3/8" deep. This left a space between the bottom of the plug and the screw head of about 1". You will see the countersink holes in the following pictures. Surprisingly, these apparent 'water-traps' remained unaffected and clear of any rot or decay.... except that caused by the screw. The major issue was the decay of the screws in the bottom corners (all four; that is 2 per window). The rusting expanded the screw and split the wood. This also lead to a bit of rot, but not much at all. Nonetheless the bottom corners had to be repaired. I did this by cutting back to where the frame was still pristine and gluing on a mahogany blank to replace what was removed. Before going to the pictures (each will have some text explaining what is happening) I will tell you that my source of the mahogany came from an original bottom plank that had some lovely material still present. Although all original bottom planks are being replaced, I would guess that 75% of each plank is reusable in this way. This ensures that the repaired frames will still be made of the exact same mahogany. When I am finally done with this project, I would be pleased to provide material to anyone who can use it this way.... otherwise I will make coffee tables.
Attachments
IMG_2269.jpg
The offending screw is on the left. It came from a bottom corner. The other two came from the top corners and are in quite good shape. These two had to be cut out because they were rusted tight into the lateral frame. I have placed one through the countersink channel in a broken piece of original frame. This is only a portion of the length of the countersink as will be explained in subsequent pictures.
IMG_2266.jpg
Broken piece of original frame corner. You can see the countersink channel for the ss screw. It was not possible to reassemble the broken pieces and glue them back in place as they were too far gone. I did try to dry fit them but it was a no-go.
IMG_2264.jpg
This is a piece of original 5/8" bottom planking that I have planed a bit to clean it up. I cut the piece in half and epoxied the halves together to yield and nice thick piece. I planed it to the thickness of the frame and cut small blocks as repair material.
IMG_2253.jpg
Blocks of original bottom planking ready to go.
IMG_2254.jpg
Just before cutting. Here you can see the messed up part of the original frame that must be cut away to provide a good surface to epoxy the new material in place.
IMG_2255.jpg
Making the cut with both pieces fastened tightly to each other with a drywall screw.
IMG_2256.jpg
Cut made. Countersink hole.
IMG_2257.jpg
After the cut. I used the existing hardware through bolt hole to securely fasten the original frame to the new block for cutting. This is a clear view of that.
IMG_2258.jpg
Here is another look at the original frame after the cutting is done. The big hole is the countersink that was an empty void since 1937. Once past the affect of the screws, the wood is sweet. The cut exposed half the screw hole that held the hardware.
IMG_2259.jpg
How it will be glued together.
IMG_2263.jpg
Blank glued to original frame piece. Masking tape helps with squeeze-out cleanup. Note the amazing condition of the original frame. Except for these bottom corners, this is the condition of all the rest. The 'dent' and holes in the original part are where the locking hardware was positioned.
IMG_2260.jpg
The top frame is a mirror image of the one being repaired (you can see the new block underneath). I lay one on top of the other, match the rest of the frame as closely as possible, then trace the top frame onto the block for a rough outline for cutting. The top frame has been repaired as well and you can see the glue line. The bruises from the clamps will be sanded out as the new piece is proud. This will erase my carelessness.
IMG_2273.jpg
I use my scroll saw to for the initial cut. I make it proud because I fear cutting too much off with a power tool. I do the final shaping with hand tools and sand paper (also hand held).
IMG_2274.jpg
Carving the new channel into the repair for the glass. I also had to remove all the hardened glazing from the original channels in the same way. Worked out fine and I did not find any rot anywhere.... amazing to me.
IMG_2275.jpg
First fit, lower left. You can see where the screw messed up the lateral piece of the frame. I have since fixed all those and will post in a few days.
IMG_2278.jpg
First fit, lower left.
IMG_2279.jpg
This shows the rough repair where it will attach to the lateral frame piece. I had to dig that screw out (what is left of it), and have subsequently repaired with a dutchman the hole left behind. Since this was taken, I have shaped the repair and it is quite near ready for final assembly.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:09 pm

I wonder if I have just forgotten previous post? but stainless screws would not be the originials....I would worry about encapsulating/hiding SS screws....more so though in underwater applications....I have seen stainless screws that rotted the surrounding wood but even worse...appeared fine on the outside only to be compromised in strength by becoming almost hollow inside the screw itself....this is because of oxygen being deprived or some such stainless bugaboos???
Your work is fantastic ....keep at it and keep posting.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:48 pm

Hi John. Definitely steel and definitely original. I have kept samples of all fasteners and I can tell you that cc used steel screws in a number of places. I was very surprised when I pulled off the keelsons to find that they were attached to the frames with 5" steel screws. All the gussets were bolted with steel bolts. Anything going through oak was brass or bronze. Here is a picture of gusset bolts which fastened two pieces of structural mahogany. All the bottom screws were brass. If I was in salt or brackish water I would definitely avoid ss, but CC certainly used it.
Attachments
M1200010.JPG
This is a shot from several years ago of the original bottom (from the inside of course). The keelson in the middle of the photo was attached to the main frames with 5" steel screws, all original. I had to cut them to remove the piece. Although surface corroded, they were solid throughout.
M2480001.JPG
Original bolt just drifted loose. The screws you may see, are brass.
M2480002.JPG
Original steel bolt.
M2550010.JPG
Original steel bolts from gusset/frame.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:02 pm

agree, steel, but not stainless steel.....they used galvanized some and some plain steel....but not stainless back that far

John in Va
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:36 pm

Sounds right to me , John.

New corners cleaned up a bit and dutchmen in lateral frame piece. I still need to strip,, sand a fair all the pieces. I plan to install the finished windows on the boat later this year. This is a winter 'indoors' project.
Attachments
M2990003.JPG
Laid out but not clamped, nor is the glass in the frame yet.
M2990006.JPG
inside. Zoom in and you can see the hull number stamp on the left. 3588.
M2990005.JPG
inside, notice dutchman. It will be much less conspicuous once everything is sanded.
M2990002.JPG
outside
M2990001.JPG
Outside.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:48 pm

It is cold and snowing, so I thought I would show you one more use of steel fasteners by CC in 1937. These are steel screws that I had to cut through in order to remove the third set of frames from the keel at the bow. Most frame sets had bronze bolts through the oak keel but not this one. The screws were driven through the floor and into the keel instead of a bolt. Although impossible to get out because they are so tight in the oak, they were in good condition. I subsequently cut them flush with a hack saw.
Attachments
fullsizeoutput_246.jpeg
This picture was taken 5 years ago and shows the original frame in place near the bow, You can zoom in and see the steel screws driven through the floor and into the keel. The next picture shows the screws after being cut to remove the frame set for proper repair. I had tried to repair the rotted ends of the inner planks with new drm which you see here, but decided to remove the entire bottom and do a more thorough job.
fullsizeoutput_245.jpeg
Steel screws that fastened a frame floor to the keel very close to the bow. 'Frozen' in place, I had to cut them to remove the frame set for repair. I used a hacksaw later to cut them flush.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sat Feb 17, 2018 6:21 pm

Hello. It is winter, and I have no new hull progress to report. Hopefully this coming week will see temperatures moderate a bit and I can get under her and dry fit a few more exterior planks. Until then I thought I would post work I did a few years ago when I replaced all the frames aft of the shaft logs (there are pictures of the finished work on page 1 of this thread). I decided at the time (as mentioned in early posts on this thread) that I had tried to save some frames but decided to replace them all, Including the transom bow. I worried a bit about the strength of even the best Dark Red Meranti (dry) I could find from a quality supplier. Consequently I chose to laminate two pieces with epoxy glue and plane them to the proper thickness. I experimented with the first piece and I could not split it, break it, nor separate the laminations. The transom bow is made up of six laminations and was formed in place to match the curve of the stern. It all worked out fine. So, here are pictures of that process for those who are interested in such things and have nothing else to do on a winter day. Sorry for some duplication from page 1.
Attachments
M1630006.JPG
This is the end result of the process outlined in the following pictures.
M1360007.JPG
The verdict. I would have preferred to repair and reuse, but the following pics and comments will demonstrate why that was not an option.
M1360006.JPG
This is a view of the original frame where it was joined at the keel to the frame from the other side. The large piece connecting them is the floor. I replaced all the floors as well. On the flip side the frame looked fine and withstood hard probing with an awl. When I pulled the frame set apart, the extent of the rot was revealed. This kind of problem will remain unless the parts are taken out and checked closely and repaired or replaced. I do not believe there is a short-cut to this kind of project. It can be a pain, but essential to knowing the hull is clean.
M1360003.JPG
I really like this planer. Here the laminated blank is being planed to 1 1/8", the original dimension.
M1360005.JPG
New laminated blank after planing beside original frame. Look closely at the original frame (extreme left of pic) where the keelson lay and you will see the steel screws that were used at the factory.
M1360008.JPG
Original frame clamped to laminated blank for tracing.
M1360009.JPG
New frame marked for cutting.
M1360010.JPG
Getting ready to cut on the band saw.
M1360012.JPG
Side view. See the comments under the next picture.
M1360016.JPG
New beside original. I tried to repair the rotted ends of the frame you see on the left, but ended up making a new one to replace it as well. If you look closely at the centre of the original frames where the keelsons were placed, you will see the cut ends of the 4" steel screws that fastened the keelson to the frame. Although still in good shape, they are frozen into the frame due to surface corrosion. Their presence contributed to my decision to replace the frames.
M1300005.JPG
Laminated transom bow. I steam bent, in place, the white oak frame you can see immediately forward of the bow. They are fastened together per the original design. I later removed these pieces for sealing and bilge paint.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:53 pm

I am looking forward to dry fitting more bottom planks this week as it will be mild. However, last year at this time I was removing and repairing or replacing side planks on the port side. I detailed that with lots of pics last year, but I thought I would post some now that show the condition of the frames and battens from the stem back 18' to the stern. This was one plank that needed some edge repair (I showed that as well) but the frames are still sweet. In 1992 I reamed out the original filler between the planks as it was cracked and had fallen out in spots. I cleaned the seams, primed with interlux bright side primer and filled the seams with 5200. You can still see some of the 5200 on the edge of the adjoining planks. It worked great. The paint is also from 1992.
Attachments
M2860001.JPG
Stem, battens and frame. Note the nails used to tack things during factory assembly. If you look closely at the first frame to the right, between the screw holes and immediately to the left of the nail head, you will see a faint pencil mark which is the number 1. Every subsequent intermediate frame was also numbered and the writing is very clear. Neat!
M2860002.JPG
That is a paint stain. There is no rot at all.
M2860003.JPG
8' from stem (or so)
M2860005.JPG
About 12' from the stem.
M2860006.JPG
Port near beside the galley.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Fri Mar 09, 2018 2:12 pm

The following pictures show the longest bottom plank I have had to replicate. The original is beside it and is over 18' long. I use high quality 1088 Meranti marine plywood for reasons I outlined before, scarfing to get the length required.
Attachments
M3010002.JPG
This picture will give a sense of the length of the planks. Awesome that the original was so long. These are for port, stbd are identical.
M3010001.JPG
Original on the left, replacement on the right. Although 90% of the original is in good condition, it has a few soft spots and splits that make re-using unwise. I also want to have the bottom made of one material and not a blend.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:38 am

Delivery run from the house to the boat for the longest bottom planks on the entire hull, 18'. Still too cold for my old bones to work underneath the cruiser.
Attachments
M3020001.JPG
Early morning to avoid traffic in Toronto, especially with the overhang. Dome shelter is getting dirty and the zippers are wearing out, but it has stood up like a champ for 8 years in some pretty nasty weather.
fullsizeoutput_256.jpeg
Port and stbd planks 2,5. 2 represents the plank number from the bow for row 5 from the keel.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Thu Mar 22, 2018 1:56 pm

I am pulling the plank immediately above the keel on the port side in order to inspect it, the fasteners and to reseat it. It protrudes from the chine by less than 1/16th and I am curious as to why. I have removed about half the fasteners, finding 5 of 7 on the stem to be broken. Similarly, the fasteners into the chine (which is oak) were broken until I got to about 3' aft of the stem. That is where I encountered the first intact screw. I have also put on a few more outer planks on the port side but it is still too cold to work for very long, and certainly too cold for adhesives. Consequently things are just dry fit for now, but it is progressing. The following pics show some of the fasteners from the chine. What is interesting (or not) is that nearer the stem, the screws are very dark where they had broken. I think this indicates a very old failure. By comparison, as I moved aft, the screws would snap under some pressure, and when the head end was extracted, I could see a bit of fresh brass but a lot of tarnished brass, indicating the screw was partially broken or cracked for a long time. Finally, screws started coming out in one piece, squeaking and protesting as they came.
Attachments
M3030007.JPG
First screw into the chine that came out in one piece. Has whitened mid shank, I think oxidizing.
M3030006.JPG
Same fastener showing distance from stem. All fasteners into the frames and batten came out in good shape. The plank above was removed last winter and repaired at the aft end and re-installed. The frames were perfect and every fastener was whole, except 4 of seven into the stem. You can see the frames in the post just above.
M3030003.JPG
Screw on the left was near the bow, the one on the right about 2' to the stern of the first. Notice how dark the break is on the left screw, while you can see some shiney brass where the one on the right snapped when I tried to extract it. It was already partially broken for some time.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Mon Mar 26, 2018 5:25 pm

Wow! you devotion and persistence and craftsmanship continue to amaze me! When you get finished, and you will, that boat will be considerably better than new. It will warm up soon....hang in there and keep posting the great pix.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sun May 06, 2018 9:46 am

Health issues in our family have meant that I have had to drop my tools on the restoration of Elude. Next year will mark our 30th anniversary of ownership. She is in her shelter so the elements won't bother her and she is well blocked. I do not know when, or if, I can get back to work on her, but that is just the way it is.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by Captain Nemo » Sun May 06, 2018 12:47 pm

Very sad to hear of your issues, hope they get resolved. We have enjoyed and admired your craftsmanship. Wishing you the best.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by jfrprops » Sun May 06, 2018 3:05 pm

yes, Like Nemo, I too have really enjoyed your post and marvel at your devotion and workmanship.....best of luck with all issues.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by Bilge Rat » Tue May 08, 2018 6:38 am

Sorry to hear about your project detour. Best of luck to you and your family.
1966 Lyman Cruisette 25 foot "Serenity Now!"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"

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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by tkhersom » Wed May 09, 2018 7:39 pm

robertpaul:

You are a GREAT inspiration to all of us cruiser guys! Be well!

Troy
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC

1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"

Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat

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robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sat Aug 04, 2018 3:19 pm

I appreciated everyone's kind words. Things have been upside down for several months but we are back on track. Family health issues are sorted out. However, about six weeks ago I was advised that due to redevelopment plans by the City of Toronto, everyone had to be off the port lands by the end of August. This has been both disruptive (more so for others) and motivating. I had to decide whether to abandon the project altogether or try to find a new place to continue. My younger daughter is now working full time in Ottawa after completing her degree at the University of Waterloo. Consequently I decided to move Elude to a small town about 45 minutes out of Ottawa, on the Rideau River. Elude will be moved over August 27-28, to her new home at Aylings Marina in Merrickville. Aylings has covered land storage and a long history with wood cruisers. Many are currently housed there. So I am delighted about the prospect of hanging out with hard core cruiser folks, working on our boats and cussin', spittin', and other activities essential to the hobby. HOWEVER, before Elude is to be moved, I decided it was important to finish putting on the bottom planks permanently. By permanently I mean that I would glue/sealant them in place with deck screws and washers until I can replace those with proper fasteners in the same locations. This meant that I could try to get all that done before the deadline.

So.... in the last three weeks I have been working harder than an old man pursuing his hobby should. I have dropped all the outer planks, did a final dress on them (smoothing out any irregularities on the edges) and began reinstalling them. It has not helped that it has been crazy hot this summer, but I am making steady progress. Port is done, and as of yesterday I have 5 of 18 on the stbd side. The heat chased me away yesterday and I am in Ottawa for several days (I need the rest, let me tell you), and will get back to it this coming Friday and Saturday. Then I will temporarily button up the sides and stow everything aboard for the trip. Here are a few pics to show what I have done since mid-July. It is hot, ugly work but strangely rewarding.

I will no longer need my dome shelter, which has withstood all kinds of violent weather short of a tornado for 9 years. It is still in good shape except for the front and back where the zippers finally gave way. If anyone has interest (Peter, are you still around?) I will sell it for $1,000 cdn. I will disassemble it but pick up is the buyer's responsibility. It comes down Aug 25th or so, and Elude will see the sky again. I would have put this on trading dock but I can't seem to access it.
Attachments
M3100002.JPG
Before the panic. All dry fit and gapped. I cut the gap with my small circular saw. It was fast and clean and accurate. Only took about an hour to do the entire bottom. To do the final installation, I had to drop all the planks and dress the edges. I set the circular saw to a depth about 1/64 less than the thickness of the planks, thereby ensuring I did not cut into the inner bottom.
M3130001.JPG
Port bow. The black stuff is squeeze-out. I soon chucked the masking tape and went freestyle for speed. I will clean up once in Merrickville and I have as much time as I need. Also, the plank I removed in my last post before the trouble started, came out beautifully and requires no repair at all. You can see from the frames and chines that it will be a simple reinstall with no carpentry required.
M3130003.JPG
Port looking aft. Plenty of squeeze out in most places. I can caulk the bits that did not flood out completely.
M3130004.JPG
Port looking forward from stern.
M3140003.JPG
STBD started. Garbords are in to the stern. Nasty trying to reach in under where there is not much clearance. But the rest get progressively easier.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Aug 05, 2018 8:01 am, edited 6 times in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by robertpaul » Sat Aug 04, 2018 3:28 pm

I forgot one bit. Working underneath takes some of the joy out of the job, but small solutions often yield a sense of accomplishment. I tarried over how I was going to make sure I got the planks in accurately with all the goo on them. Initially I tried using a couple of 1/4 bolt in a locator hole drilled through the plank and into the inner bottom where it is against a frame. Look in the middle of the third pic in the previous post and you will see one hanging out. It worked but was time consuming and a mess trying to get the plank lined up. Needed a better way. I decided I would remove the planks from the chines, moving in one row at a time. As each plank came out, I fastened small blocks flush and hard against the next plank, marking both the plank and the block with a sharpie to get the lengthwise position. The edge of the block ensures the plank is in the right location vis the adjoining plank. To my surprise it worked like I knew what I was doing.
Attachments
M3120003.JPG
Here is a better picture of the little blocks I use to fix the position of the plank before removing. In this pic, the plank with the blocks against it is about to come out for final dressing of the edges and then final installation. The faint line on the inner bottom is sawdust from gapping with my circular saw.
M3140001.JPG
You can see one of the small blocks in the upper left just behind the workhorse. I will take more pictures of the process of lifting and placing a plank next week. I fear getting goop all over the camera. The line under the block running along the inner bottom is only sawdust from sizing the gaps with the circular saw. Wipes off with a gloved hand.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Aug 05, 2018 8:05 am, edited 4 times in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser

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Captain Nemo
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser

Post by Captain Nemo » Sat Aug 04, 2018 4:01 pm

Great to hear that health issues have been sorted out. Sad to hear that you are being forced to pack up and move in the middle of your work. Elude’s new home sounds like a great facility and an excellent place to finish up your project. We all appreciate your dedication. Looking forward to seeing your progress and good luck on the move.
Last edited by Captain Nemo on Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.

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