Oil film

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:22 pm

My dipstick shows a gray muddy oil when I check the oil. If I wipe it clean and check it again, its clear like new oil. If I wait a half hour and check it again its the gray mud again.

Any ideas?

doubleboater · Post by **doubleboater** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:23 am

Is that with the engine running , not running, cold, hot. Could just be moisture in the block that hasn't had a chance to "burn" off yet. Does the gray stuff show up after its been running for awhile

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:06 am

The engine has not run for a month. I got it used and ran it after installation OK but after sitting for awhile it shows the gray matter on the dipstick. I have not run it because I don't know if it needs an oil change. The oil looks like new on the second try with the dipstick. Guess I'll run it a bit and see how it looks.

gbraker · Post by **gbraker** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:17 pm

I would change the oil, and suck as much as you can from the transmission and try it again. If you have the same problem then its time to look at gaskets or possibly a crack in the block. The water is coming from somewhere, but at least by changing the oil you have a known starting point.

gbraker · Post by **gbraker** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:20 pm

One other thing, have you done a compression test?

if you have a leak it will show up there probably.

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:44 pm

Thanks much. Are we sure its water? I thought water would be at the bottom. I'll run it next week and see if its still there and change the oil if it is.

gbraker · Post by **gbraker** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:58 pm

I assumed it was water, water gives the oil a gray milky look. If gas is mixed with oil it just thins it out, but the color is basically the same. What else is there in a motor besides oil, gas and water?

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:08 pm

I guess it could be antifreeze. The engine was winterized before it was shipped to me. Would that float to the top? Is it harmful?

JimF · Post by **JimF** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:28 pm

It really doesn't matter if it is water or antifreeze. There should be nothing in the oilpan but oil. I agree with sucking out all the oil, including from the transmission if it is a K or M or similar engine, and then adding new oil. Run the engine for a few minutes and check the oil for water. If none is visible, run for a longer period of time and check again. Also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge. If, after running for 20 minutes or so, no water appears, you are good to go. If it does appear, do not run the engine any more until the leak is found. What engine is it?

quitchabitchin · Post by **quitchabitchin** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:40 pm

Be sure to mark your oil level on the dipstick after you change the oil as well. If the oil still looks milky, check the mark and see if the level has gone up. If it has, you have an active leak, if it has not after some good run time but still looks milky, you may have to do a couple more oil changes before it shows completely clear.

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:47 pm

I ran the engine for 10 minutes and the oil level went up and is more milky. Where do I start to repair the leak?

JimF · Post by **JimF** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:58 pm

What engine do you have? K, M, Chrysler, V8?

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:35 pm

Its a K. You want to email me direct: [email protected]. Or phone 713-725-2660

JimF · Post by **JimF** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:00 pm

Engines are not my strong suit but the only place I can think of that oil and water get near each other is in the oil cooler. I had a problem with the oil cooler but in that case the oil was getting in the water. The oil was disappearing and it turned out it was running through the cooling system and out the exhaust pipe. I see no reason it couldn't work the other way and water mix with the oil. I had one motor that was getting water in the oil and it was because of a bad gasket where the oil lines to the cooler leave the block (right behind the coil). I removed that plate and made a new gasket and that fixed the problem.

As I recall, the oil cooler has a replaceable ceramic heat exchanger. If you could borrow a known good one, you could test it that way. It is not a huge job to pull off the plate I mentioned above, but you should get some second opinions before you dive in. There are people here who know a lot more about this than I do. I would be happy to talk to you but this is pretty much what know about this problem. 512 288 5359

Captain Nemo · Post by **Captain Nemo** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:03 pm

Marvin,
I hate to say that this sounds like a cracked block. I would start by pulling the head. These have a tendency to crack in the area between the cylinders.
-Mark

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:10 pm

Any chance it might be the oil cooler? I think my mechanic put pressure on the water intake with the garden hose to try the engine. I understand this could break some seals which could be the problem. Where are these seals?

gbraker · Post by **gbraker** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:50 pm

Sometimes a way to find the leak is to do a compression check. If you have two adjacent cylinders with low compression it may mean a bad head gasket. Its common to have a water leak through the head gasket.

Private message Jim Staib at finewoodboats.com

quitchabitchin · Post by **quitchabitchin** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:53 pm

It could be any of the above mentioned issues. You have to eliminate them one at a time. Pull the oil cooler and take it to a radiator shop and have it tested. It is an easy check. A compression test is a good idea as well, and it is easy too if you have the proper tools. I would check both of these before pulling the head. Anywhere oil and water are in close proximity to each other is a possibility.

Captbob626 · Post by **Captbob626** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:10 pm

If your mechanic put a hose on the water intake, 1. I would find a new mechanic, 2. He could have pushed water into the exhaust valves and it could have leaked past the rings and into the oil.

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:57 pm

I pulled off the side plate which is behind the coil as Jim suggested above and there is no sign of a leak there. But there is no oil there, only water. The oil return line goes into the block just below that plate. So it probably could not cause the problem on this engine since no oil is present there.

My compression is between 130 and 145 on all cylinders so it seems the next step would be to remove the exhaust manifold and test it. Hope to do that tomorrow.

jamesm2733 · Post by **jamesm2733** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:24 am

If the engine runs well and it's not getting water in the cylinders I don't believe it would be the exhaust manifold. You need to start by changing the oil and make sure you get all the oil out of the engine and transmission. Refill the oil with 5W30, plumb water to the engine after the water pump. Start the engine and turn the water on with low pressure. Be sure to have enough water coming from the exhaust. Let the engine run and warm up the oil. The lighter weight oil will help clean out the muddy oil. If you oil level doesn't rise and the new oil stays fairly clean (remember this oil is cleaning the muddy oil from the engine)I would suspect the water pump. If the oil gets real muddy and the level rises, try this procedure after the oil cooler. If after the oil cooler, the oil muddys it would be the block or cylinder head. This is all a matter of elimination. Good Luck.

Captbob626 · Post by **Captbob626** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:08 am

When you hook up water to the engine, put a bucket in the boat and run water to the bucket, let the engine suck it out of the bucket. This way you will not risk water being pushed into the exhust system.

mnovak · Post by **mnovak** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:07 am

I have tested the oil cooler at the radiator shop and they cannot make it leak. The water pump is impeller and it leaks water down straight to the bilge, it doesn't seem it could be getting into the oil because the shaft driving the impeller is open and water cannot pass along it to the crankcase.

Since my compression is good, I would not suspect the block or head gasket, right? Seems the only thing left is the manifold.

Captbob626 · Post by **Captbob626** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:10 pm

Give me a call if you would like before you pull the exhust manifold.
Bob
609 226 9122

Oil film

Oil film

Deposits on dipstick

Water in oil

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