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Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
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Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
This is my first post, as a new CC owner and new member.
My boat is a 1942 17' Special Runabout, which we acquired about a month ago. The boat is in really great, restored condition, but does take in a flow of water at the shaft packing nut, so I am pretty sure that I need to address this by replacing the the flax rope seal. I have a couple of sizes, do not know which to use, but is 1/8" the one?
The leak is enough that simply tightening the packing nut would not likely fix it. I feel I am better off just doing it once and doing it right.
But, there is very little clearance between the top of the packing nut and the coupler, not enough to undo the nut and expose the rope seal. When the packing nut is off the threads, it touches the coupler, no where for it to go. See the attached photo, with everything tightened down.
To replace the rope seal, do I need to loosen the prop shaft and pull it out the rear, to drop the packing nut? It seems like this is the only way I can get to the seal, but I hate to open what seems to me to be a Pandora's box if I don't have to go there.
Thanks in advance for any advice that can be given.
-Kevin
My boat is a 1942 17' Special Runabout, which we acquired about a month ago. The boat is in really great, restored condition, but does take in a flow of water at the shaft packing nut, so I am pretty sure that I need to address this by replacing the the flax rope seal. I have a couple of sizes, do not know which to use, but is 1/8" the one?
The leak is enough that simply tightening the packing nut would not likely fix it. I feel I am better off just doing it once and doing it right.
But, there is very little clearance between the top of the packing nut and the coupler, not enough to undo the nut and expose the rope seal. When the packing nut is off the threads, it touches the coupler, no where for it to go. See the attached photo, with everything tightened down.
To replace the rope seal, do I need to loosen the prop shaft and pull it out the rear, to drop the packing nut? It seems like this is the only way I can get to the seal, but I hate to open what seems to me to be a Pandora's box if I don't have to go there.
Thanks in advance for any advice that can be given.
-Kevin
Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
The shaft packing will be either 3/16" or 1/4". To replace it you will have to pull the shaft out. While out you will need to inspect the glade nut carefully. Take the nut off and slide it on the shaft and see how much clearance you have around the shaft. I find a lot of them worn to much from being out of alignment.
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Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
A good opportunity to inspect the condition of the cutless bearing, as well. Also, be sure that the shaft is not fretted from over-adjusted packing. Usually, when packing wears, and loses its impregnated lube (usually wax), the tendency is to pull the gland up tight in an effort to squeeze a few more hours of boating time. Renewing packing around a distorted shaft is usually futile. Many skippers tend to tighten packing. Packing is always to be adjusted, never tightened... CQ
Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
Thanks guys, I appreciate it - I also came to the conclusion that withdrawing the shaft would be the only way to re-pack it - thanks for the advice - are there any tricks to pulling the shaft? Does it simply run through the cutlass bearing without any retainers, etc. once the wired bolt is removed from the coupling and the prop removed as well? Does it tap back into place with a rubber mallet?
I am learning about this boat, and having fun at the same time
I am learning about this boat, and having fun at the same time
Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
Something that caught my eye in your photograph is that it looks like the flat spot on your shaft where it should line up with the bolt with the wire thru it, doesn't line up. Am I understanding something wrong? It looks like the flat spot on the shaft is straight up toward the viewer, and the bolt with the wire is 90 degress off to the right.
Steve A
1956 18' Chris-Craft Continental
1956 18' Chris-Craft Continental
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Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
That appears to be the keyway. The setscrew should engage a depression or "dimple" which is usually machined into the shaft using the coupling as a drill jig. The coupling fit on the shaft should be approx .0005" (half-thousanth of an inch) over the shaft diameter. A slight interference fit that will respond to easing with a wood mallet is permissible; any fit that requires hammer blows is too tight and leads to a distorted coupling and/or scoring the mating surfaces. During reassembly ensure that the shaft is free of burrs with light filing or sanding. Ensure that the key fits snugly in the keyway and that it is fully-seated. In regards to the cutless bearing, wear is evident if the shaft can be moved laterally in the bearing. The shaft may show some wear as a polished effect. If the shaft is scored or is under the nominal shaft size in the wear area, a new shaft may be in order. If the bearing allows lateral movement and the shaft is good, just replace the cutless bearing. As for re-packing, there are instructions here on the Buzz. CQ
Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
AS the retaining wire is not corroded and not copper, I think that the coupler may have been removed recently and should come off easily ...then follow Charles' an Jim's instructions.
Re: Shaft Packing '42 Special Runabout
I was able to fix this leak over the weekend, not without a bit of effort. This involved shortening the rubberized hose coupling by about an inch, which allowed me to slide the packing gland down the shaft and gain clearance to the bottom of the packing nut. Easier said than done, though, since the lower hose clamp was the sort with a slotted round screwhead. Further, the lower hose clamp was beneath the thwart, with no ability to see it from above or get a screwdriver on the clamp. I have no idea how the lower clamp was installed, but I removed it with a small hacksaw, cutting through the bolt. This allowed me to turn the rubberized hose and cut an inch off. This solved the leak, once 1/4" flax seal was added. The lower hose clamp is now a solid stainless clamp that can be tightened with a 7MM box wrench from the side, to get under the thwart.
All's well that ends well, and thanks for all the advice given.
All's well that ends well, and thanks for all the advice given.
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