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Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
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- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Going to try again to post a pic. I am slowly making process fabricating and dry fitting the outer planks. I can't beat the cold weather in time to use adhesives so I am satisfied to dry fit, gap and pre-drill so all will be ready come April. Over the winter I will finish all the side planking, finish bolting the chines to the frames, and get the solid planks prepared for the transom. Hopefully I will soon be able to provide more complete reports of the project. I will put up some pics on the Facebook site, but won't give up on Boat Buzz.
Pic rejected again....sigh. I will post on Facebook
Pic rejected again....sigh. I will post on Facebook
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Another test
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- 533056303.767168.jpeg (21.54 KiB) Viewed 4886 times
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
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Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- Don Danenberg
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Your post "Another Test" on Dec 1 2017, DID produce a photo here, boat at the dock.
I even figured out how to change the page from the first page to the 6th page (latest) by scrolling all the way down and changing photo views from 'ascending' to 'descending'.
However, I can't figure out how to view pages 2 thru 5?
I even figured out how to change the page from the first page to the 6th page (latest) by scrolling all the way down and changing photo views from 'ascending' to 'descending'.
However, I can't figure out how to view pages 2 thru 5?
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Looks like we are back in the Buzz business. I will have to make sure my photos are <3mb, but everything else seems good. I will try to go back and repost the photos that are missing. I successfully restored a pic on page 5. I will do the others later because I am being bumped off the computer. Here is a test of a pic from last year with side planks dry fit. 1.5mb. My heartfelt thanks to the folks that sorted this out.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
test changing the mb's of the pic.... oooooooooooooh...its working.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Here we go with my first substantive post since the new and improved Boat Buzz. I do like the new format.
Although I have showed how I installed the inner bottom and a few outer planks in earlier posts, I thought I would show one installation start to finish and how far I have gotten before winter shut me down. The text with the pics pretty much describe everything. Stbd is at the same stage. I number the planks and the one in this sequence is P,1,5. That means Port,1st from bow, 5th from keel.
Although I have showed how I installed the inner bottom and a few outer planks in earlier posts, I thought I would show one installation start to finish and how far I have gotten before winter shut me down. The text with the pics pretty much describe everything. Stbd is at the same stage. I number the planks and the one in this sequence is P,1,5. That means Port,1st from bow, 5th from keel.
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- This gizmo works like magic as I said before. I can position a plank in minutes, tap it into place and tack it up with dry wall screws for dry fitting. At this point I put a small wood block between the gizmo and the plank, which pushes the plank up snug. The shiny screws you see are the temporary ones used to fasten the inner bottom until the adhesive cured.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
router might be better than the say???? imho John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I would agree, but I am terrible with a router. I will try to make up a bit guide and experiment (on scrap). I have used the saw to clean old seam material and it worked fast and accurately. I do appreciate the advice.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Robertpaul....that was not advice....as I too am terrible with a router...just seems like how most of the more skilled than us guys do it. I have one of those small circular saws, plunge feature, and it would do that job well as you suggest. I can burn up a router bit and tear out the end of the workpiece with the worst of them. Don't even own a router anymore because of that.
John in Va.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Before Buzz was fixed I posted pictures on the Facebook site showing the work I was doing to repair the front window frames that hold the glass. I want to include the story in this record, so I apologize for covering old ground.
The fabrication of the corner joints at the factory employed dado joints, glue and long stainless steel screws. The screws were set in from the sides of the frames by way of a very deep countersink, about 1 1/2 inches. Once fastened the countersink hole was plugged with a plug that was at most 3/8" deep. This left a space between the bottom of the plug and the screw head of about 1". You will see the countersink holes in the following pictures. Surprisingly, these apparent 'water-traps' remained unaffected and clear of any rot or decay.... except that caused by the screw. The major issue was the decay of the screws in the bottom corners (all four; that is 2 per window). The rusting expanded the screw and split the wood. This also lead to a bit of rot, but not much at all. Nonetheless the bottom corners had to be repaired. I did this by cutting back to where the frame was still pristine and gluing on a mahogany blank to replace what was removed. Before going to the pictures (each will have some text explaining what is happening) I will tell you that my source of the mahogany came from an original bottom plank that had some lovely material still present. Although all original bottom planks are being replaced, I would guess that 75% of each plank is reusable in this way. This ensures that the repaired frames will still be made of the exact same mahogany. When I am finally done with this project, I would be pleased to provide material to anyone who can use it this way.... otherwise I will make coffee tables.
The fabrication of the corner joints at the factory employed dado joints, glue and long stainless steel screws. The screws were set in from the sides of the frames by way of a very deep countersink, about 1 1/2 inches. Once fastened the countersink hole was plugged with a plug that was at most 3/8" deep. This left a space between the bottom of the plug and the screw head of about 1". You will see the countersink holes in the following pictures. Surprisingly, these apparent 'water-traps' remained unaffected and clear of any rot or decay.... except that caused by the screw. The major issue was the decay of the screws in the bottom corners (all four; that is 2 per window). The rusting expanded the screw and split the wood. This also lead to a bit of rot, but not much at all. Nonetheless the bottom corners had to be repaired. I did this by cutting back to where the frame was still pristine and gluing on a mahogany blank to replace what was removed. Before going to the pictures (each will have some text explaining what is happening) I will tell you that my source of the mahogany came from an original bottom plank that had some lovely material still present. Although all original bottom planks are being replaced, I would guess that 75% of each plank is reusable in this way. This ensures that the repaired frames will still be made of the exact same mahogany. When I am finally done with this project, I would be pleased to provide material to anyone who can use it this way.... otherwise I will make coffee tables.
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- The offending screw is on the left. It came from a bottom corner. The other two came from the top corners and are in quite good shape. These two had to be cut out because they were rusted tight into the lateral frame. I have placed one through the countersink channel in a broken piece of original frame. This is only a portion of the length of the countersink as will be explained in subsequent pictures.
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- The top frame is a mirror image of the one being repaired (you can see the new block underneath). I lay one on top of the other, match the rest of the frame as closely as possible, then trace the top frame onto the block for a rough outline for cutting. The top frame has been repaired as well and you can see the glue line. The bruises from the clamps will be sanded out as the new piece is proud. This will erase my carelessness.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I wonder if I have just forgotten previous post? but stainless screws would not be the originials....I would worry about encapsulating/hiding SS screws....more so though in underwater applications....I have seen stainless screws that rotted the surrounding wood but even worse...appeared fine on the outside only to be compromised in strength by becoming almost hollow inside the screw itself....this is because of oxygen being deprived or some such stainless bugaboos???
Your work is fantastic ....keep at it and keep posting.
John in Va.
Your work is fantastic ....keep at it and keep posting.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Hi John. Definitely steel and definitely original. I have kept samples of all fasteners and I can tell you that cc used steel screws in a number of places. I was very surprised when I pulled off the keelsons to find that they were attached to the frames with 5" steel screws. All the gussets were bolted with steel bolts. Anything going through oak was brass or bronze. Here is a picture of gusset bolts which fastened two pieces of structural mahogany. All the bottom screws were brass. If I was in salt or brackish water I would definitely avoid ss, but CC certainly used it.
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1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
agree, steel, but not stainless steel.....they used galvanized some and some plain steel....but not stainless back that far
John in Va
John in Va
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Sounds right to me , John.
New corners cleaned up a bit and dutchmen in lateral frame piece. I still need to strip,, sand a fair all the pieces. I plan to install the finished windows on the boat later this year. This is a winter 'indoors' project.
New corners cleaned up a bit and dutchmen in lateral frame piece. I still need to strip,, sand a fair all the pieces. I plan to install the finished windows on the boat later this year. This is a winter 'indoors' project.
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1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
It is cold and snowing, so I thought I would show you one more use of steel fasteners by CC in 1937. These are steel screws that I had to cut through in order to remove the third set of frames from the keel at the bow. Most frame sets had bronze bolts through the oak keel but not this one. The screws were driven through the floor and into the keel instead of a bolt. Although impossible to get out because they are so tight in the oak, they were in good condition. I subsequently cut them flush with a hack saw.
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- This picture was taken 5 years ago and shows the original frame in place near the bow, You can zoom in and see the steel screws driven through the floor and into the keel. The next picture shows the screws after being cut to remove the frame set for proper repair. I had tried to repair the rotted ends of the inner planks with new drm which you see here, but decided to remove the entire bottom and do a more thorough job.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Hello. It is winter, and I have no new hull progress to report. Hopefully this coming week will see temperatures moderate a bit and I can get under her and dry fit a few more exterior planks. Until then I thought I would post work I did a few years ago when I replaced all the frames aft of the shaft logs (there are pictures of the finished work on page 1 of this thread). I decided at the time (as mentioned in early posts on this thread) that I had tried to save some frames but decided to replace them all, Including the transom bow. I worried a bit about the strength of even the best Dark Red Meranti (dry) I could find from a quality supplier. Consequently I chose to laminate two pieces with epoxy glue and plane them to the proper thickness. I experimented with the first piece and I could not split it, break it, nor separate the laminations. The transom bow is made up of six laminations and was formed in place to match the curve of the stern. It all worked out fine. So, here are pictures of that process for those who are interested in such things and have nothing else to do on a winter day. Sorry for some duplication from page 1.
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- This is a view of the original frame where it was joined at the keel to the frame from the other side. The large piece connecting them is the floor. I replaced all the floors as well. On the flip side the frame looked fine and withstood hard probing with an awl. When I pulled the frame set apart, the extent of the rot was revealed. This kind of problem will remain unless the parts are taken out and checked closely and repaired or replaced. I do not believe there is a short-cut to this kind of project. It can be a pain, but essential to knowing the hull is clean.
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- New beside original. I tried to repair the rotted ends of the frame you see on the left, but ended up making a new one to replace it as well. If you look closely at the centre of the original frames where the keelsons were placed, you will see the cut ends of the 4" steel screws that fastened the keelson to the frame. Although still in good shape, they are frozen into the frame due to surface corrosion. Their presence contributed to my decision to replace the frames.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I am looking forward to dry fitting more bottom planks this week as it will be mild. However, last year at this time I was removing and repairing or replacing side planks on the port side. I detailed that with lots of pics last year, but I thought I would post some now that show the condition of the frames and battens from the stem back 18' to the stern. This was one plank that needed some edge repair (I showed that as well) but the frames are still sweet. In 1992 I reamed out the original filler between the planks as it was cracked and had fallen out in spots. I cleaned the seams, primed with interlux bright side primer and filled the seams with 5200. You can still see some of the 5200 on the edge of the adjoining planks. It worked great. The paint is also from 1992.
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- Stem, battens and frame. Note the nails used to tack things during factory assembly. If you look closely at the first frame to the right, between the screw holes and immediately to the left of the nail head, you will see a faint pencil mark which is the number 1. Every subsequent intermediate frame was also numbered and the writing is very clear. Neat!
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
The following pictures show the longest bottom plank I have had to replicate. The original is beside it and is over 18' long. I use high quality 1088 Meranti marine plywood for reasons I outlined before, scarfing to get the length required.
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1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Delivery run from the house to the boat for the longest bottom planks on the entire hull, 18'. Still too cold for my old bones to work underneath the cruiser.
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1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I am pulling the plank immediately above the keel on the port side in order to inspect it, the fasteners and to reseat it. It protrudes from the chine by less than 1/16th and I am curious as to why. I have removed about half the fasteners, finding 5 of 7 on the stem to be broken. Similarly, the fasteners into the chine (which is oak) were broken until I got to about 3' aft of the stem. That is where I encountered the first intact screw. I have also put on a few more outer planks on the port side but it is still too cold to work for very long, and certainly too cold for adhesives. Consequently things are just dry fit for now, but it is progressing. The following pics show some of the fasteners from the chine. What is interesting (or not) is that nearer the stem, the screws are very dark where they had broken. I think this indicates a very old failure. By comparison, as I moved aft, the screws would snap under some pressure, and when the head end was extracted, I could see a bit of fresh brass but a lot of tarnished brass, indicating the screw was partially broken or cracked for a long time. Finally, screws started coming out in one piece, squeaking and protesting as they came.
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- Same fastener showing distance from stem. All fasteners into the frames and batten came out in good shape. The plank above was removed last winter and repaired at the aft end and re-installed. The frames were perfect and every fastener was whole, except 4 of seven into the stem. You can see the frames in the post just above.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Wow! you devotion and persistence and craftsmanship continue to amaze me! When you get finished, and you will, that boat will be considerably better than new. It will warm up soon....hang in there and keep posting the great pix.
John in Va.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Health issues in our family have meant that I have had to drop my tools on the restoration of Elude. Next year will mark our 30th anniversary of ownership. She is in her shelter so the elements won't bother her and she is well blocked. I do not know when, or if, I can get back to work on her, but that is just the way it is.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- Captain Nemo
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Very sad to hear of your issues, hope they get resolved. We have enjoyed and admired your craftsmanship. Wishing you the best.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
yes, Like Nemo, I too have really enjoyed your post and marvel at your devotion and workmanship.....best of luck with all issues.
John in Va.
John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)
Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Sorry to hear about your project detour. Best of luck to you and your family.
1966 Lyman Cruisette 25 foot "Serenity Now!"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"
Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
robertpaul:
You are a GREAT inspiration to all of us cruiser guys! Be well!
Troy
You are a GREAT inspiration to all of us cruiser guys! Be well!
Troy
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I appreciated everyone's kind words. Things have been upside down for several months but we are back on track. Family health issues are sorted out. However, about six weeks ago I was advised that due to redevelopment plans by the City of Toronto, everyone had to be off the port lands by the end of August. This has been both disruptive (more so for others) and motivating. I had to decide whether to abandon the project altogether or try to find a new place to continue. My younger daughter is now working full time in Ottawa after completing her degree at the University of Waterloo. Consequently I decided to move Elude to a small town about 45 minutes out of Ottawa, on the Rideau River. Elude will be moved over August 27-28, to her new home at Aylings Marina in Merrickville. Aylings has covered land storage and a long history with wood cruisers. Many are currently housed there. So I am delighted about the prospect of hanging out with hard core cruiser folks, working on our boats and cussin', spittin', and other activities essential to the hobby. HOWEVER, before Elude is to be moved, I decided it was important to finish putting on the bottom planks permanently. By permanently I mean that I would glue/sealant them in place with deck screws and washers until I can replace those with proper fasteners in the same locations. This meant that I could try to get all that done before the deadline.
So.... in the last three weeks I have been working harder than an old man pursuing his hobby should. I have dropped all the outer planks, did a final dress on them (smoothing out any irregularities on the edges) and began reinstalling them. It has not helped that it has been crazy hot this summer, but I am making steady progress. Port is done, and as of yesterday I have 5 of 18 on the stbd side. The heat chased me away yesterday and I am in Ottawa for several days (I need the rest, let me tell you), and will get back to it this coming Friday and Saturday. Then I will temporarily button up the sides and stow everything aboard for the trip. Here are a few pics to show what I have done since mid-July. It is hot, ugly work but strangely rewarding.
I will no longer need my dome shelter, which has withstood all kinds of violent weather short of a tornado for 9 years. It is still in good shape except for the front and back where the zippers finally gave way. If anyone has interest (Peter, are you still around?) I will sell it for $1,000 cdn. I will disassemble it but pick up is the buyer's responsibility. It comes down Aug 25th or so, and Elude will see the sky again. I would have put this on trading dock but I can't seem to access it.
So.... in the last three weeks I have been working harder than an old man pursuing his hobby should. I have dropped all the outer planks, did a final dress on them (smoothing out any irregularities on the edges) and began reinstalling them. It has not helped that it has been crazy hot this summer, but I am making steady progress. Port is done, and as of yesterday I have 5 of 18 on the stbd side. The heat chased me away yesterday and I am in Ottawa for several days (I need the rest, let me tell you), and will get back to it this coming Friday and Saturday. Then I will temporarily button up the sides and stow everything aboard for the trip. Here are a few pics to show what I have done since mid-July. It is hot, ugly work but strangely rewarding.
I will no longer need my dome shelter, which has withstood all kinds of violent weather short of a tornado for 9 years. It is still in good shape except for the front and back where the zippers finally gave way. If anyone has interest (Peter, are you still around?) I will sell it for $1,000 cdn. I will disassemble it but pick up is the buyer's responsibility. It comes down Aug 25th or so, and Elude will see the sky again. I would have put this on trading dock but I can't seem to access it.
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- Before the panic. All dry fit and gapped. I cut the gap with my small circular saw. It was fast and clean and accurate. Only took about an hour to do the entire bottom. To do the final installation, I had to drop all the planks and dress the edges. I set the circular saw to a depth about 1/64 less than the thickness of the planks, thereby ensuring I did not cut into the inner bottom.
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- Port bow. The black stuff is squeeze-out. I soon chucked the masking tape and went freestyle for speed. I will clean up once in Merrickville and I have as much time as I need. Also, the plank I removed in my last post before the trouble started, came out beautifully and requires no repair at all. You can see from the frames and chines that it will be a simple reinstall with no carpentry required.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Aug 05, 2018 8:01 am, edited 6 times in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- robertpaul
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
I forgot one bit. Working underneath takes some of the joy out of the job, but small solutions often yield a sense of accomplishment. I tarried over how I was going to make sure I got the planks in accurately with all the goo on them. Initially I tried using a couple of 1/4 bolt in a locator hole drilled through the plank and into the inner bottom where it is against a frame. Look in the middle of the third pic in the previous post and you will see one hanging out. It worked but was time consuming and a mess trying to get the plank lined up. Needed a better way. I decided I would remove the planks from the chines, moving in one row at a time. As each plank came out, I fastened small blocks flush and hard against the next plank, marking both the plank and the block with a sharpie to get the lengthwise position. The edge of the block ensures the plank is in the right location vis the adjoining plank. To my surprise it worked like I knew what I was doing.
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- Here is a better picture of the little blocks I use to fix the position of the plank before removing. In this pic, the plank with the blocks against it is about to come out for final dressing of the edges and then final installation. The faint line on the inner bottom is sawdust from gapping with my circular saw.
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- You can see one of the small blocks in the upper left just behind the workhorse. I will take more pictures of the process of lifting and placing a plank next week. I fear getting goop all over the camera. The line under the block running along the inner bottom is only sawdust from sizing the gaps with the circular saw. Wipes off with a gloved hand.
Last edited by robertpaul on Sun Aug 05, 2018 8:05 am, edited 4 times in total.
1937 35' Double Stateroom Enclosed Cruiser
- Captain Nemo
- Posts: 733
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:40 pm
- Location: Lyons, NY
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Re: Honey, have you finished fixing Elude yet? 1937 35' Cruiser
Great to hear that health issues have been sorted out. Sad to hear that you are being forced to pack up and move in the middle of your work. Elude’s new home sounds like a great facility and an excellent place to finish up your project. We all appreciate your dedication. Looking forward to seeing your progress and good luck on the move.
Last edited by Captain Nemo on Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.
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