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283 timing

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ccforme
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283 timing

Post by ccforme » Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:02 pm

Does anyone know where I could get an engine manual for a 1962 283 (in my '62 Cavalier)? Actually, I'm looking for the timing setting, as I have added an electronic ignition(s), and need to adjust .
thx!

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Al Benton
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Post by Al Benton » Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:12 pm

Tom is The Engine Manual King, Tom King www.ccmanuals.com which should include the 283.

Welcome to Boat Buzz.

Al

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evansjw44
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Timing a 283

Post by evansjw44 » Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:09 am

The 283 has a timing mark on the flywheel you line up with the pointer that sticks through the window of the flywheel housing. There are no degree marks like you'd see on a car harmonic balancer. Often there are two timing marks, one for standard and one for opposite rotation. The timing mark is just a drill indent on the flywheel edge behind the ring gear. If you turn the engine over by hand you'll see it. Originally there would have been some white paint in the drill indent so you can see it. The paint is probably gone by now and you'll have to renew it.
Jim Evans

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E-J Ohler
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Post by E-J Ohler » Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:35 pm

Also as your engine(s) is/are old and camshafts and other parts probably worn down, I was told and agree, adjust the timing while engine is under load and running out at sea just by listening and if she keeps running and reacts to throttle input your fine. Old fashioned but works.
Thanks,
E-J
"Dad Gawn Crazy" - 1963 31' Cavalier Futura Custom (Twin 283)

jahearne
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Post by jahearne » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:57 pm

I'll be there real soon once I get these manifolds and risers replaced; electronic ignition is on its way since one motor has a bad coil or condensers. The correct engine manuals are on their way.

I fine tune-up my old cars by vacuum and load-test. I'll locate a vacuum port on my 283F and post results.

What kind of electronic ignition did you go with, ccforme?


Thanks,
John
John & Wendy

ccforme
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Eledctronic Ignition/Eng. manual

Post by ccforme » Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:55 pm

Thanks guys. I got that dvd from THE engine guy. It has a TON of stuff, but I haven't been able to find my engine on it. I thought 283's would be VERY common - that's what I get for thinking I guess - happens ALL the time!
John - As for EI, I got them thu Pertronix(http://www.pertronix.com/)
model #'s 1584 Ignitor & 40011 coil. EXCELLENT products. The first one took me 25 +/- minutes, and the second about 10. Very simple.
Where'd you get the manual???

Thanks again!

Don, aka: ccfor me

jahearne
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Post by jahearne » Wed Apr 29, 2009 5:02 pm

I'm getting the manuals from Mariner's Museum. They're still on the way. I spoke to Robert at http://www.chris-craft-parts.com and he suggested an electronic module made by Prestolite. Once I get the parts, I'll post how it all goes together.
John & Wendy

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evansjw44
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Advance Curve

Post by evansjw44 » Wed Apr 29, 2009 5:36 pm

I expect that you have Prestolite distributors. If you get the number off the brass tab you can call Prestolite and get the advance curve. You don't have any vacuum advance. You'll find that you probably have some issues with the mechanical advance and you'll want clean that up before you change to the Pertronix. Note that you'll find that the Pertronix will change your time about 20 degrees.
Jim Evans

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Post by jahearne » Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:04 pm

Robert sent me the Pertronix Ignitor 1581 kit for my Pretolite distributors in 283F engines. Then I got Pertonix 45,000 volt coils at my local hotrod shop. The instructions say to line up the base plate one position for counter clockwise engines secured with two screws and another for clockwise engines secured with one screw. The only difference is the position of the ignition module in relation to the rotor cap - about a quarter turn.

Since cam and distributor turn clockwise on both motors, I followed directions securing the breaker plate with one screw, which worked just fine and both motors fired right up. However, I prefer the added security of mounting the plate with two screws and I might just move the plug wires around to do so. For now, it runs just fine with one screw holding the breaker plate in place.


Image

There is some corrosion in the distributors but everything moved freely and no broken springs. I imagine the bushings are worn because it's difficult to get the timing mark to line up; it bounces around in relation to the flashing timing light. I'll get them rebuilt someday. Now, I'm off to replace the plugs, wires and give it a proper tune-up.

John
John & Wendy

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wnoll
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Post by wnoll » Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:12 pm

Not for sure if you are still interested, but I have a pdf of the Engine Operators Manual for 283F and 327F for 1964. I created the scan from my original that came with the boat when I bought her a few months ago. Send me an email or note I'll be glad to send the pdf to you.

Under timing this is what is quoted:
IGNITION TIMING
To set the ignition timing use a timing light. The flywheel is provided with a timing mark on its
rim and an ignition timing indicator is positioned over the flywheel ring gear. With the timing
light connected to the battery and No. 1 spark plug (port side at front end) and the engine run at
idle (500 RPM) set the distributor so that the timing light shows the flywheel timing mark directly
in line with the ignition timing indicator.
Recheck ignition timing after tightening the distributor to be sure it is properly set.
I'm just getting started on mine. How did you like the updates to yours?

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Paul P
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283 Timing Specifications, for the record

Post by Paul P » Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:30 pm

Because there are so many 283 motors in service and many people will need this info, I'm posting the 283 spec from a CC service bulletin:

Flywheel timing marks are placed to provide an INITIAL SPARK ADVANCE AT 500 rpm as indicated below:

283 4-degrees B.T.D.C. (Before Top Dead Center)

The mark can be found by measuring 15/32" in the direction of rotation from T.D.C. (Top Dead Center).

Internal springs will allow the centrifugal advancing of the spark when engine speeds exceed approximately 600-700 RPM. As speed increases the spark will continue to advance to the maximum of 28-degrees to 32-degrees @ 3200 -3500 RPM for the 283, and 31-degrees @ 4000 for the 283F.

It is important to be sure your motor will idle down to the 500 RPM mark for testing, as you see the advance starts around 600-700 RPM. Old distributors such as the IBM Prestolite will encounter rusted springs at some point, and these are still available if you look hard enough. Many places such as NAPA seem to have a tough time even finding Prestolite in their books these days.

Get an old timer, they'll know where to look.

Regards,

Paul
1956 17' CC Sportsman, 300-hp
1957 17' CC Sportsman, 95-hp
1966 20' CC fiberglass Sea Skiff, 210-hp+
1973 23' CC Lancer inboard project, 427/375-hp.
1966 38' CC Commander Express, 427/300-hp(2)

So many boats.........so little time.....but what a way to go!!

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evansjw44
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Info GOOD

Post by evansjw44 » Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:52 pm

Thanks Paul. I've always set timing to the mark at 500 or so RPM but I didn't know it was actually 4 degrees BTDC. I'll try to remember that. See, on a 327F there are two timing marks (one for each rotation) that are obviously not at TDC as there would only be one.
Jim Evans

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Paul P
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Post by Paul P » Fri Nov 12, 2010 4:12 pm

The 327F is my favorite small block, it is low compression at 8.0:1, uses the standard intake manifold if you need to replace or upgrade it, and they make plenty of power at 210 horses. :-) I had a pair in my 1968 35' wood lapstrake Sea Skiff, and what a joy they were! Never any problems, and even the guy who eventually bought the boat never had any either.

Regards,

Paul
1956 17' CC Sportsman, 300-hp
1957 17' CC Sportsman, 95-hp
1966 20' CC fiberglass Sea Skiff, 210-hp+
1973 23' CC Lancer inboard project, 427/375-hp.
1966 38' CC Commander Express, 427/300-hp(2)

So many boats.........so little time.....but what a way to go!!

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evansjw44
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More

Post by evansjw44 » Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:29 pm

My 327Fs are in my '67 35' Sea Skiff Corinthian. They have been good work horses with relatively few issues. They've been rebuilt by a top notch shop some years ago and its interesting to see how messed they could be and still seem serviceable. I like them better than the 283s in my father's '63 34' Corinthian. I now have hydraulic lifter cams and they cool better than the 283s open split system.

I still have a soft spot for the pair of Ms in my 30' skiff but they had some silly issues it took years of patience to sort out.
Jim Evans

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