Steering Wheel Removal

[John Cederstrom]

I'm ready to remove the steering wheel from the column on my 1946 16' Garwood Ensign. I'm looking for advice on removing the horn button, throttle lever and steering wheel before I do some serious damage. Both the throttle lever and trim ring are in need of re-chroming. The steering wheel also has some serious Bakelite cracking; wide cracks with some small broken pieces missing. If I open the cracks up and remove any loose or broken pieces what is the best product to refill with?

John

[knotty48]

John
Snap a photo and post so we know exactly what you have. I am not a Garwood but we can help.
Pete

[John Cederstrom]

Here's 2 photos I hope are attached. I believe this set-up is very similar to the steering wheel on my 1941 16' runabout. It wasn't necessary to remove the wheel on the CC so I didn't benefit from a learning curve. I'm guessing I need a small 3 point wheel puller which I do not have.

John

[jim g]

Undo the lever from the rod at the back of the steering box then pull on the lever. The rod will slide out of the steering colum.

I have the same steering wheel. Its in better shape then yours. But it does have some cracks. It came off a customers boat when I found a new old stock wheel for his 19' Garwood. I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post. I would like to sell it if your interested.

[John Cederstrom]

So far so good. I have removed the lever and rod from the column. Now how do I detach the horn button and throttle lever from the rod? Also how do I remove the steering wheel from the column? The horn button appears to be operating as I was able to make and break the circuit from the wire to the throttle lever by pushing and releasing the button. The wire insulation was obviously brittle. I also was able to loosen the nut holding the wheel to the column. Somebody needs to publish a book on this for dummies.

John

[jim g]

On the back of the lever the is a wire clip that holds the rod flange to the lever. Remove the clip and wiggle lever off. Don't loose the spring that will fall out. Undo the screw that holds the horn button on.

[John Cederstrom]

We're making progress. Have now removed the horn button(did not lose the spring) and the throttle lever. Only thing left is to separate the steering wheel from the column. Hex nut is loose but now what? Couple of questions: Is the electrical wire for the horn available somewhere? I have attached a photo of a part that was on the rod under the throttle cable bracket that held the rod on. What is this part used for? It acted like a spacer under the cable bracket I removed.

[jim g]

Thats the friction clamp. The part in the center was spot welded to the throttle lever that clamps around the rod. The arms on the brass spring clamp should come straight out. Yours is bent.

As far as the steering wheel removal. Take the nut off and spray penetrating oil around the shaft where it comes through the hub. Stand the column up straight so it will puddle around the shaft. Do this for several days.

This is where you have to be careful. The steering tube is hollow. So when you press on it you want the nut flush with the end of the shaft. This will keep you from messing up the tube. I use a combination of a two arm puller and a bearing race splitter.

Here are some pictures of the wheel I have. If you have any interest send me a PM.

[knotty48]

John,
It looks like you are in good hands here. I have posted the assembly from my 1948 CC which looks the same. Make sure you secure all the parts some are small but play a big part to the assembly working correctly. It is simple but most that don't work are because people do not have them assembled correctly. Let us know if you need any other help. I have restored my wheels myself and it takes time lots of time and patience. There are some restorers out their and just get some references.
Pete

[John Cederstrom]

Knotty48: Thanks for the picture of the steering wheel assembly. It was helpful as I wasn't sure of the orientation the plastic washer was supposed to be(big side in or out). Parts dropped out pretty quickly on disassembly.

JimG: I'm presently soaking the wheel with Blaster PB 16 penetrating catalyst. I see 3 threaded holes (3/8"-16) surrounding the center shaft. I suppose I could jerry rig a puller off these holes-yes?

Back to the friction clamp--what is it used for? I don't remember one on restoring my 16' CC. If I bend the arms out straight are they supposed to be parallel with each other? Does anyone supply parts for these steering systems. I know my wire with contact on the end will need replacing as the insulation is really brittle.

Regarding your steering wheel---I may be interested but I'd like to try and salvage mine first. I'll keep yours in mind.

Please accept my thanks for the invaluable technical support you've furnished.

John

[jim g]

I forgot that wheel had thread holes. The chris craft ones don't. You can get a harmonic balance puller to remove it. The one I linked to ought to work good. You want to make sure that the tool you get has a flat base to push on the steering column tube. Make sure the nut is flush with the end of the shaft.

The friction clamp keeps the throttle lever from falling downward when you have it at idle. The levers should be around the 2:00 position when at idle. You pull downward from there to accelerate. The weight of the lever will accelerate the engine.

Let me know if you decide you want the steering wheel. The price will be fair. Not looking to retire off of it.


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C2371

[knotty48]

John,
See if this will help you. I restored all my wheels so far and they have come out great. I did learn a little more on my latest restoration. I have always used a rattle can spray paint but my Capri I did all the repair work and I took it to my local body shop and had them put some new paint that they use for door handles on cars. This paint can be mixed to any color and it is tough. I always had a problem with lotions and just wear and tear and this new paint is the ticket...
The attachment I enclosed may help on your restoration. I found this write up and have used bits and pieces of it. It just takes patience. If it is just to far gone you may have to get a little better project to work on.
Good Luck!

The attachment Steering Wheel Reconditioning 12-14.pdf is no longer available

Steering Wheel Reconditioning 12-14.pdf

Restoration of wheel

(136.67 KiB) Downloaded 180 times

[John Cederstrom]

Was able to remove steering wheel. Purchased a bolt type wheel puller kit at Harbor Freight ($12.99 less 20%). Came off pretty easy with a couple of light hammer taps. Attached are photos of its condition. Not too bad on the finger grip side. Will give it a go on restoring myself. I'm still in need of a supplier of the horn button wire. Let me know if either of you have any ideas. Thanks again for your help and thanks for Boat Buzz.

John

[jim g]

Rhode island wire has cloth braided wire or you can use modern wire if you want. You have to desolder the end and solder it on to a new piece of wire. Put a good bit of solder on it. Then shape it with a file to look like it did before you started.

[John Cederstrom]

I thought someone may supply wire with end attached but desoldering and resoldering end contact fitting to new wire seems like a no brainer. Will do. Thanks.

John

[John Cederstrom]

If anyone is still following this thread I am wondering what color white would be proper for a 1946 Garwood Ensign.

John

[Al Schinnerer]

The wheels were tan, not white.

[John Cederstrom]

Thanks for the info on color.

John

[prlentz]

I have a related question . When i purchased my boat the throttle on the steering wheel was disconnected from the rod going down the steering collum.Can I pull it straight out or will I have issues putting it back in . I also am missing whatever holds that rod to the chrome lever . The horn soring and parts are all there just I have no knowledge of what connects it . The photo that is posted helps but that part I can not see . I have everything in that photo . 1938 sportsman. I could pull the whole assembly out if I have to but would like to leave the collumn mounted in the boat of possible

[jim g]

In the photo theres a skinny wire ring thats on the rod. That wire ring fits in grooves on the baskside of the lever. Thats what holds it to the rod. You should be able to just pull your rod out if the lever is removed from the rod behind the steering box.

[prlentz]

Thanks Jim
Just to clarify so I don't create another problem . If I undo the hardware at the steering box I can pull the throttle rod out completely and work with it on a bench? I have all the parts in your photo but the rod is not attached to the actual throttle lever . If there is another small piece that is in place on your photo I dont have it .could I weld the rod to that ring that has the three square extensions that is holding the horn assembly in the steering wheel ? I think the end of mine has been buggered up and that retaining ring is lost