First you can rule out any synthetic oils because they are too slippery for the reverse gear to operate as it shares oil w/ the crankcase. I would recommend using a non-detergent oil if you are not running an oil filter. A characteristic of a detergent oil is to suspend all the gunk and stuff to car...

I did the light scrubbing as per the website with a touch of bleach in the mix and it really didn't do much for it. By the end of this season it is just as bad or worse. I guess it's worth a call to Sunbrella. Thanks guys.

Just wondering. Has anyone tried putting Sunbrella fabric in a washing machine? I didn't see anything on the website saying you can't. I know I shouldn't put it in the dryer. My mooring cover has some mildew and other stains that I haven't been able to get out with light hand scrubbing last spring. ...

Plugging and re-drilling the lag holes is a possibility, though I think it may be difficult to get a straight hole with the dissimilar woods in the same area. You might get away w/ carefully heating and tweaking the strut rather than trying to move it. Then you have to consider the alignment of the ...

I would try it just the same. Another thing it’s good to remove the packing gland and nut from the shaft log so you can see how close to center the shaft is where it comes thru the log. You can check if there is any damage to the strut too.

You lower both wedges on one side the same amount that you raise the ones on the other. Your mounts are above the centerline of the shaft, that will shift the flange towards the side that was raised. That should adjust the centerline either to port or stb. You may have to adjust the height front or ...

I think you may be able to sand the orange peel out depending on how bad it is. You may end up back down to the 2000e and starting over if it's real bad.
In reality, I don't think the fish will complain about a little orange peel.

That's a lot of "screwing" around, my tendonitis flares up just thinking about all that. Nice work!

Jim, you say the cover on the oil pump is leaking? Make sure the gasket is installed with the little drain hole towards the bottom. Otherwise the oil accumulates in that area and seeps out around the bail.

You should find it stamped on one of the engine stringers or I think if you remove the rear seat back it might be stamped on the edge of the rear deck. It should have a number CL-18-XXX, the X's representing the production sequence number, in between 001 and 484. They built 484 18' continentals from...

Napa used to have new internal cable kits at one time, not anymore. If you know of a heavy truck repair garage, older trucks have cable driven tacs and speedos. They still rebuild them. You are probably better off getting a whole replacement cable from places like www.classicboatconnection.com or ot...

The carb number to identify what you have is stamped on a round tag on the carb.

Depends who you talk to. I've always had good luck w/ them. They work well IMO.

All very good advice. I have always been a bit of a purist, feel a bit disappointed when I see modern power in a boat that wouldn't have come with such a mill. David is right, when done correctly a repair is permanent. My opinion is that these old flatheads are pretty tough and reliable power when m...

Yes, they should have a hole right at the top. It acts as a siphon break. It's pretty small, never measured either. Should be checked periodically to make sure the hole is clear.

Thank you Troy, You have done a great job. Good luck!

Glad to see she made the trip without incident. Looks like a good work area. I too, am fortunate to be in an old school, wood boat friendly yard too. They are getting harder and harder to find. Looking forward to more of your great work!

Sorry I'm gonna be blunt :shock: but really, there's not a lot you can do once a finish has been compromised to improve it's looks much short of a refinish. I have in the past did topcoats to stabilize, until I got to a restoration. If there are weathered parts on the blond without any finish at all...

The k and the ko are both 95hp. The o in ko stands for opposite rotation (port side in a twin screw installation).
Your kl is a k model with a long stroke producing 105hp.

I imagine the original light fixtures would not pass today's CG standards as they probably didn't have sealed globes for the engine room. I'm guessing they just used the same ones used for interior lighting on cruisers back then.

Engine room lights? That seems like a strange option for a runabout to me. I suppose it’s possible. Might be handy for changing out a set of points at night.

You should bed the side planks w/ something. I would use a old school bedding compound like Dolfinite, but that's just how I roll. Some may use boat life or Sikaflex or something along those lines.

I agree with Matt and the Bilge Rat. Wax on a finish will cause adhesion problems for any top coats.

Sorry to hear of your wife’s troubles. I would start by listing it here on the trading dock. You may find an interested party here.
We all would like to see it find a new home.

Gallagh59, is that a clamshell vent on the front deck? Looking at your pic the first time I thought it was a rear view mirror. The boat listed on Antique Boat America has a single vent in the middle of the front deck and what appears to be a vented bow light. The pic from the Essential Guide shows t...

I see in the pic that your boat doesn't have the vents on the front deck so I would face them FWD If the side vents are facing aft as they should. I still think a FWD facing vent will pick up air like a scoop as the boat moves along. Interesting dilemma. Maybe if we can get some wind tunnel testing ...

I'm looking at a photo in the Essential Guide, it shows three vents on the hull sides facing aft. Are these the ones you are referring to? It doesn't show any vents on the rear deck. The photo looks correct to me as there are two large vents on the front deck for intakes and the vents on the sides w...

Hope she has a smooth trip, good luck.

tuobanur wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 8:23 am

Not sure if it has anything to do with it but you should be using non detergent oil.

Probably not, but yes, you should be using non-detergent oil unless you have an oil filter

Really there is no easy way to rake out seams. You need a hooked tool of some sort and some time. What sort of caulking is in there now? You don't want anything in the seams that isn't going to squeeze out. That causes stress on the bottom when it swells.