Use whatever is the best mahogany type wood available to you. It’s above the water line and painted. Consider moisture content when fitting a repair piece against existing. Good Luck!

Yes. After it’s fully cured.

Most show boats are much nicer than when delivered. Chris Craft was a volume production builder. Three or four coats of varnish and out the door. Although, it is a lot of fun mixed with a touch of madness trying for the perfection. I’m afraid my clamps won’t make the grade.

If you have ethanol in your fuel I’d definitely rebuild it. The older pump diaphragms aren’t ethanol resistant. I hate oil leaks. Good Luck!

Gotta love a guy who smells his oil once and a while. Think we need to come up with an oil smell-O-meter? Keep that dip stick away from your nose.

I’d tape off around the blond area. Strip, sand, stain, revarnish. The yellow looks a bit odd? Is that the right shade for your boat.

What a great spot. Your very lucky to find a yard that accommodates wooden cruisers and do it yourselfers. Elude looks beautiful in the light of day. Carry On!

I’m more of a traditional type Dolfinite fan. You can use 5200, but if you ever have to remove a plank for repair you’ll regret it. Best of luck with your restoration.

Personally I wouldn’t do it. Any time you add a penetration and fitting into a fuel tank you have another potential future leak. Real bad, especially if the leak is in the bottom. BOOM!

Don D., Thanks for your reply and also, THANKS so much for taking the time figuring out a way to redo boat bottoms. I’m sure your the reason so many boats survive today. As far as my old cruiser goes, I’ve never used 5200 between the seams. I have used Interlux or Pettit Underwater seam compound hea...

Took a break from The Buzz while the new format was being worked out. Glad it’s all up and running. Always the best tips and info here on everything Chris Craft!

Don D., I know your 5200 bottom method has become standard and has withstood the test of time, but would the same method work on a large cruiser that is let to soak for months at a time or would planks swelling with 5200 between cause push out on the chines. Thanks.

Glad your back! You've had over 14,000 views on The Buzz and counting. CARRY ON!

End of an Era! There are fewer and fewer younger folks interested in anything to do with hands on fix or restore your own boat or fix anything else for that matter. Education has gone another way. There's a severe shortage of skilled tradesmen and it's getting worse. Been in the trades for forty yea...

I'd guess it's a runabout (rocket) 1953 number 99 in a series of 243. Looks like they may have stamped 17 to designate length twice. Not part of the hull number. Nice Boat!

Looking forward to your report. I've never worked on a sea skiff. Will be interesting to see how you go about it.

You've got a great boat there in really nice shape. Maintenance is easy and fun! Just have to keep up with it and do a little each year. As far as the bottom goes, clean it up and if your recaulking clean the old dried up caulking out of the seams first. You dont want to use a router. Just a scraper...

Probable had a restoration somewhere along the line. If the bottom is not rotted and the fasteners are good and holding tight I'd caulk the bottom with Pettit underwater seam compound and bottom paint just prior to launch. The seam compound remains flexible and excess will squeeze out. It'll hold up...

The script in the advertisements didn't always match script used on the boats. Creative license.

Very Nice! Your passengers are definitely ready to go for a ride. Happy Boating!

I agree, if your in fresh water stainless is OK. My 1948 36 Double Stateroom has always been in salt water so bronze would be my only option. Although my boat is 11 years newer, our bottom construction is pretty much exactly the same. The double stateroom didn't change much from prewar to post war. ...

Looks Great Rob! How will you bed and fasten the planks? I would think you'd want the seams sealed and water tight as plywood doesn't swell much. 5200?

Congratulations! That is so lucky to find your grandaddys long lost boat and get her back in the family. Post some pics and have fun with the restoration!

Every boat is different even if their the same. Fill your tank, go for an hour long cruise at your preferred cruising RPM, fill the tank again and see how much she burned per hour. What ya get is what ya get. I burn ten to twelve an hour depending on sea conditions in my 36 with twin 350's at 2800 R...

Congratulations on your successful one man flip. What's your bottom plan? Take your time, have fun and keep us posted!

Sounds like the starboard cable is slipping at one of the connections. With the engine stopped push both throttles full open and check at the carbs to see if their both all the way opened. If not the cable is slipping in either the end connections or the cable jacket clamp connections. Another possi...

Beautiful Boat! I suspect when she was restored the original bottom was still in great shape or a new bottom was done as original. It'll probably swell tight after she's been soaked for a couple days without having to use caulking. If the boat is to be trailored and used occasionally a no leak botto...

Craig, I've had good results with roll and tip urethane paints, but I'd agree that a perfect sprayed finish is the best. In my experience, either way you chose to apply a high gloss paint, the finish will only be as good as the the fairness of the substrate. How bout a photo?

Steve, I just think it's so interesting and rare to find a CC from 1939 in unrestored original condition. Must be a great story to go along with it? Glad she's being preserved. Thanks for the photos!

I always chose preserved over full restored unless the boats just gone past the point of preservation. I'm an old guy and I like old boats that look old. The perfect restorations are great but kinda boring to my eye next to a user vintage original. Love the old patina! Takes many years to get that l...