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Winterization Proceedure

Winterizing? Summerizing? Covering? Trailering? If it is about a boat out of water put it here.

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GWelty
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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:45 pm

Winterization Proceedure

Post by GWelty » Fri Nov 04, 2016 10:38 pm

I want to winterize my 1956 Continental. It has twin in line sixes and I have been told that they are Hercules engines. Does anyone have the proceedures for winterizing these engines? Thanks, Gary

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Don Vogt
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Re: Winterization Proceedure

Post by Don Vogt » Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:30 am

I see no one has responded to this yet,and you no doubt want some info. I am no expert but there are several threads here that you can search on for help on this. Depending on model there should be some drain plugs in the engine block to remove and a water hose intake to disconnect from the water pump. also a drain plug under the water pump. Disconnect the battery. Ideally put the battery on a trickle charger during the winter. Drain the gasoline out of the carburator. Put gas stabilizer in the gas tank.

Also a good idea to change the oil at that time before winter storage. Some change spark plugs now to be ready to go in the spring. If you are a member of a local acbs chapter, there should be those who can give you more specific advice. I always go up and down a hill before putting the boat away to make sure any last water will drain out.


Another issue is protecting the inside of the engine from rust. There was a recent discussion of that here, too. Several different ways to do that.

Remove drain plug from bottom of bilge. depending on seat design, you may want to remove some cushions, bottom pads, etc. to allow air to flow more freely during the winter to the bilge area.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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mbigpops
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Location: Eastern Massachusetts

Re: Winterization Proceedure

Post by mbigpops » Thu Nov 10, 2016 1:15 pm

I did my first winterize on my KL this year.

In addition to what Don has detailed above I did change the spark plugs and sprayed fogging oil into each cylinder as part of the process.

After you put stabilizer in the tank it is also a good idea to run the engine so it gets into the fuel lines and carburetor. You can also remove the flame arrestor and spray the fogging oil into the carburetor while it is running.

The other step to help prevent rust in the engine is to disconnect the water intake from the thru hull and put antifreeze in a bucket and use a temporary hose hooked up to the water pump to pump it into the engine. I used the West Marine blue stuff as is it suppose to have corrosion inhibitors that the pink stuff does not have.

Mark
1953 CC Rocket Runabout "Rocket Man"

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Bilge Rat
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Re: Winterization Proceedure

Post by Bilge Rat » Thu Nov 10, 2016 2:45 pm

Another consideration is using oil or an oil additive that has ZDDP to help lubricate the highly loaded camshaft/solid flat lifters in our antique engines. You can Google ZDDP additives and the oils that still have them already in their formulation (such as Brad Penn), but these old solid flat lifter engines need this in their oil. Modern hydraulic lifters do not need this and coupled with environmental issues, today's oil no longer has this in the formulation. Engine wear in this part of the solid lifter valve train can be severe enough to wipe a cam lobe.

There are arguments on both sides of this hot topic, but you can determine for yourself if you want it.
1966 Lyman Cruisette 25 foot "Serenity Now!"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"

GWelty
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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:45 pm

Re: Winterization Proceedure

Post by GWelty » Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:59 pm

Thanks gentlemen. I did find recomendations under Hercules 6 cylinder engines that includes what you have mentioned and a little more.

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