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Finishing sequence for new wood

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 6:00 am
by Peter McBratney
I am rebuilding my 19ft 1961 Capri with all new wood on bottom, topsides and deck. The new wood is faired and sanded to 180 grit. Deck stripes slots are all cut but not yet filled
I am looking for guidance on the best sequence and materials where appropriate for the new wood on sides and deck for bleaching, neutralizing, staining and varnishing.

Happy to correspond via email if that suits or call via Skype or phone

Peter McBratney, Adelaide, South Australia

Re: Finishing sequence for new wood

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 9:24 am
by maritimeclassics
I think we could help with that. I have a sheet that we used for a couple of the workshops we put out. We are putting on another workshop on this very topic on the 17th of March. I will post it here and then you can give me a call if you would like when you can and we could talk it over. There is a few different ways that people do it but this works very well for us and a proven method.
Varnishing.doc
(28 KiB) Downloaded 187 times
Maritime Classics 231-486-6148

Re: Finishing sequence for new wood

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:19 am
by Peter McBratney
My apologies for the late reply. I have been travelling and on another long project.

Thanks for the varnishing article. It will be very useful when I get to that point.

I have the bottom finished so I am now looking to bleach the sides and deck. This is where I need some more guidance.

In Aus we cannot get the same branded bleaching products that you have in the States, so I have tried household bleach (basically Sodium Hypochlorite), hydrogen Peroxide 30% solution, Oxalic Acid and have not managed to gain any significant bleaching of the timbers. I should also say that the side and deck timbers are "Malaysian Mahogany" (local term). This is a red medium hardwood and it looks and feels very similar to the timbers used in the original boat (1961 Capri).The nearest species in my text book is "Meranti, Red, Dark" which goes under several names, as per the attached description.

My test pieces have all been treated at room temperature and allowed to soak for up to two hours before rinsing off. When dried there is little if any colour change.

The second photo is of the engine hatch, where the large centre portion will be blond and the grooved portions mahogany stain.

I would welcome any suggestions, particularly if the recommendations can include the chemicals used in the treatment.

Regards

Peter