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Bottom Paints...
Moderators: Don Ayers, Al Benton, Don Vogt
Bottom Paints...
Just spent about 2 more hours searching for answers as to what is the best bottom paint to use... and I'm still not sure, so I decided to just ask.
The boat's bottom ('49 33' CC Deluxe Enclosed Cruiser) is 60% new with the remaining 40% just sanded plywood, all has recieved multiple coats of CPES(now somewhat "shiny" in appearence) and ready to paint. It will initially be floated in fresh water, but after about a year, relocating her to salt(St. Petersburg, FL).
I am also looking into "X-Line" or Rhino type products. Any and all help, opinions and personal success/failures will be most appreciated!
The boat's bottom ('49 33' CC Deluxe Enclosed Cruiser) is 60% new with the remaining 40% just sanded plywood, all has recieved multiple coats of CPES(now somewhat "shiny" in appearence) and ready to paint. It will initially be floated in fresh water, but after about a year, relocating her to salt(St. Petersburg, FL).
I am also looking into "X-Line" or Rhino type products. Any and all help, opinions and personal success/failures will be most appreciated!
Micron extra
Thanks for the input Jeff. Was this a similar application? plywood, salt/freshh water, cpes, etc.?
Randy
Randy
Randy,
The Interlux Micron Extra will serve you well in fresh, brackish or salt water.
A group in Arizona were talking about trying a bed-liner type material on the bottom of a cruiser but don't know if they followed through or not. Who knows, it might work in a fresh water environment in Arizona. The problem is, in most fresh water conditions algae and slime grows quickly unless there's some ingredient on the bottom to prevent it. In salt and brackish water, sealife attaches itself and must be scraped off. So the question may be if the nasty stuff can be removed from that type of material without damaging it.
The CPES should be a good base coat and primer for the bottom.
The Interlux Micron Extra will serve you well in fresh, brackish or salt water.
A group in Arizona were talking about trying a bed-liner type material on the bottom of a cruiser but don't know if they followed through or not. Who knows, it might work in a fresh water environment in Arizona. The problem is, in most fresh water conditions algae and slime grows quickly unless there's some ingredient on the bottom to prevent it. In salt and brackish water, sealife attaches itself and must be scraped off. So the question may be if the nasty stuff can be removed from that type of material without damaging it.
The CPES should be a good base coat and primer for the bottom.
Al
Member - Executive Team
Member - Executive Team
Bottom Paint
Thanks for the input Al. I had a discussion with the owner of our local X-Line office and learned the following; They prefer to do the work in their facility, it cost $8-$10 /sq ft, they have no data or experience with woodies, the product stops all water intrusion(he said that the rhino type products do not) and they have a portable unit to do off-site work, but it requires 2 individual 110/20 amp services. He described the coating as a "thick plastic coating"... not what I'm looking for! The rhino-type products interested me becauce of their flexibility and durability as noted (above water) when utilized to protect floors. I will be coating some materials with the stuff and hanging it in both salt and fresh water down here in Florida, then we'll see what happens. In the mean time, sounds like it will be the Micron Extra this time.
Thanks again,
Randy
Thanks again,
Randy
bottom finish
The best procedure over epoxy is a two part epoxy primer such as pettit makes since you are in Mount Dora you can stop by the shop and I will show it to you. Gary, Old Time Boat Co
- maritimeclassics
- Posts: 700
- Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:35 pm
- Location: Traverse City, Mi
- Contact:
If it was me I would go one step further after applying and sanding the CPES, then 2 coats of 2000E barrier coat then use the Micron Extra.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Re: Bottom Paints...
This is what I ended up doing here... 4 coats of CPES, 5 coats of the E2000, 2 coat of Petit’s Hydrocoat... time will tell.
- maritimeclassics
- Posts: 700
- Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:35 pm
- Location: Traverse City, Mi
- Contact:
Re: Bottom Paints...
Good choice, let us know how she hold up.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
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