Steering linkage components

gleninst · Post by **gleninst** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:59 pm

Where can I find a socket assembly for the ball fitting on the end of the Pitman arm of my Gemmer steering box? The socket mounts on the fore end of the steering control rod. Thanks. Paul

Bill Basler · Post by **Bill Basler** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 2:03 pm

Keep an eye on eBay. You will see them every once in awhile. Just make sure the donor boat is of the same vintage as yours.

Or, call Bratton's Antique Auto Parts.

1-800-255-1929

They have a fair assortment of Gemmer parts. You are looking for drag link rod ends. They sell the fittings and also rebuild kits for them.

WoodenBoatDIY · Post by **WoodenBoatDIY** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:18 pm

The Gemmer steering box is the exact Gemmer two tooth steering box found on a Model A Ford. The only difference is hte part where the box mounts ont the stringer and that is set up for a horizontal mount, and the Model A is set up for a vertical mount on the chassis. The other differenc is the arm. Mdel A has a square shaft, and the Chris Craft has a splined shaft. Other than that the gear box and all components are exactly the same and fully interchangeable. You can go to any Model A Ford reproduction parts house and get all the stuff you need.

Snyder's is online and has pretty good stuff. They will have gasket parts, pitman arms, ball linkages, tie rod kits. YOu can cut and paste th elink to steering parts from below. I did not see the piman ball repair kit but I know they have it.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/model ... ing?page=1

They also have a needle bearing kit that if you have a machinist, you can cut the casting to the proper size and replace the bushings with needle bearings which is a favorite trick of the Model Aers. They sell the kit there.

They also sell a ball replacement where you cut the old worn ball off the puttman arm, then drill a tapered hole using a specil bit that I think they provide, then you insert the new ball post. The ones they sell comes with a nut on the back. I, however, put in then tapered hole by applying a little heat to the arm and not the pin to slightly expand the arm, then insert the pin and let it cool. The arm shrinks tight around the pin. Then you can weld the back side and grind it back to the previous shape and no one can tell it has been repaired.

Sammy

gleninst · Post by **gleninst** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:19 pm

Thanks for all the help. Paul

tph · Post by **tph** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:49 am

Glen,
I use new swivel sockets that are made by Buck
Algonquin. They fit the arm perfect and are made
for 1/2" pipe.
tom
vintage marine

DeanS29 · Post by **DeanS29** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:13 pm

Are some of the rod links riveted on instead of threaded? I was able to remove the cotter pin but the end plug is too rusted to remove and the link appears to be riveted on.

Bill Basler · Post by **Bill Basler** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:23 pm

Yes, the end that you are dealing with has a rivet. I had a real bear of a time getting mine removed.

DeanS29 · Post by **DeanS29** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:32 pm

Bill, can I replace the riveted link or do I have to thread the rod and use a threaded link? I can't imagine trying to thread that pipe in the boat Thanks Dean

Don Ayers · Post by **Don Ayers** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:11 pm

Yes you can go back to original. The pin is a tapered soft steel that can be bought at the local harware store. You get the correct size, put it through, trim off leaving about 1/8" extra on both side, then using a hammer expand the top to create a very tight fit. It is very simple and fun.

Don Ayers · Post by **Don Ayers** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:13 pm

Sorry, I tried to post other pics but I keep getting "Internal script error"

Steering linkage components

Steering linkage components

Pitman Arm

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