Stuffing Box and strut

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:36 pm

Hi Folks,

I’m sure I will have some strut/alignment/stuffing box work ahead of me and need some early guidance on my 22 sea skiff.

1. When I remove the packing nut, there is no room to inspect/change out the packing. This seems odd. Related, the hose material seems a bit tired and twists in the middle with hand pressure. It also seems unnecessarily long. If I shortened it up, I could gain an inch? Is this a reasonable approach and what is the type of hose used.

2. My strut has a 3/8s gap at the back edge. A little oak wedge is used to keep the gap, but it’s really not solid all around. If I can solve #1 and the current configuration remains, is the 3/8 (bordering on 5/16) too much for a proper shim? Can the shim be wood (oak or black locust etc or is metal usually used)?

The engine was rebuilt and it appears that it was placed back in the boat about an inch further aft. I’m guessing based on old paint marks.

Thanks, Steve

farupp · Post by **farupp** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:46 pm

Steve, it looks to me that when the engine was put back into the boat, it wasn't aligned properly. You already found that it is too far aft which may explain why you can't get to the stuffing box packing.

I don't believe the strut should have any shims. At least I have never seen one with shims. It seems that the engine and prop shaft aren't properly aligned with the strut. Instead of aligning them properly, a shortcut was taken and shims were put under the aft end of the strut. This is not a stable set up and the strut will work loose pretty quickly.

I would remove the prop shaft from the strut and bolt the strut correctly to the hull without any shims. Then the engine and prop shaft need to be realinged.

Hopefully it isn't any more serious than proper alignment.

Frank

Greg Wallace · Post by **Greg Wallace** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:04 pm

Unless the bottom is out of shape, the wedge and engine placement suggests that an incorrect strut might have been installed at some point and this was all done in an attempt to achieve alignment. Jim Staib can likely find his underwater parts listing quicker than I can.
Post the number on your strut and boat year (hull number will help). I would determine if your strut is correct before you go to alot of extra effort.

Peter M Jardine · Post by **Peter M Jardine** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:36 pm

The motor was moved back. That made the angle of the shaft increase, and the strut had to have a greater angle as well. All bad ideas. Move the engine back up, rebed and tighten the strut, take the coupler off the engine and repack the stuffing box. Replace the chunk of hose for new, and get either t-bolt hose clamps or solid banded clamps for the hose to stuffing box connection.

The wedge was the thinking of someone who isn't very bright to begin with.That strut setup is just plain dangerous. Once they found out the vertical angle was way off from repositioning the engine, they decided it was too much work to move it back. The likely reason the engine was moved back was that the original lag bolt holes were sloppy. If that is the case, drive a dowel back down the hole with epoxy around it and redrill the hole so the lag bolts tighten up.

JohnKadimik · Post by **JohnKadimik** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:48 pm

The strut casting numbers for the SK22 series are: Before SK-22-2000 uses #5843. After SK-22-2000 would be #6735.

charlesquimby · Post by **charlesquimby** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:35 pm

I have seen folks use just any hose that fits. Be sure the replacement stuffing box hose is wire reinforced, and I would use t-clamps for attachment. CQ

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:32 pm

Ok, this is helpful.

I have two numbers,

Strut is 5843
Shaft guard has 5847 WF (btw - it also has a gap on the trailing edge of the front mount). Well, this just gets better - there is only one screw in the bottom of the strut and the other hole doesn't line up.

Looking at the strut from a side distance, I just can't see the shaft aiming at the log once the strut is flush mount - the angle will flatten and place the shaft forward of the hole. The strut looks long.

John, thanks for the reference numbers. My hull is 22-2263. Do you know if the shaft guard is at least correct to the hull and the 6735 strut or did they share common numbers?

All - thank you.

jim g · Post by **jim g** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:48 pm

can you post a picture of the bottom of the strut and of the engine mounts and the wood blocking underneath the mounts? Is the shaft guard bar straight or does it have a bend in it?

JohnKadimik · Post by **JohnKadimik** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:09 pm

Steve, the advise from Frank and Peter is right on. Loose the wedge, bolt up the strut, and then line up your motor. I think the different strut numbers relate to the shaft size. Shaft size for a K or M is 1x45, 1x47 for a 283.

jim g · Post by **jim g** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:46 pm

I don't think the motor was moved back because the solid rod that connects to the shifter rod goes through the stringer. For the engine to be moved back the shifter rod would have to be lengthen and the hole would have to be cut open further back for the rod to connect. I think you will find that the strut has probably been bent backwards. I might be able to tell with better pictures of the strut assembly.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:35 pm

Jim - you're right, I didn't see that. There are no new holes for the shift arm. The shaft guard is straight. Now that I look closer, it is only the wedges that are positioned back.

John - thanks. yes agreed on the fix. Just want to make sure I'm clear. You mentioned that post 22-2000 hulls used strut # 6735. My hull is 22-2263 and I have strut # 5843 - is this the wrong strut and does it matter?

Also, you can see that the screws holes in the lower strut do not and will not line up. Something is not right.

A few more pics. I appreciate this help guys.

jim g · Post by **jim g** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:10 pm

The screws in the bottom of the strut don't line because of the strut being tilted forward. The question is. Is your strut bent or as you think is it not the right one? Chris Craft isn't going to change struts for a different length shaft as John suggested. The 283 was designed to drop in place of the K without having to change any of the wood engine mount blocking and the 283 is 1/2" shorter then the K. They would change it for different shaft diameter or for different shaft angle. In the first picture the alignment at the couplers looks really close. With that much wedge under the strut something is way off. How does the shaft look when it passes though the shaft log hole. Is it in the center, off to one side, closer to the top or bottom? Right now if you took out the wedge I don't think the shaft will even pass through the shaft log hole. Tomorrow I'll look at my books and see if I can figure out the differences and I might have one of the struts at the shop. I'll post what I find tomorrow evening.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:28 am

Thanks Jim, I appreciate that.

I have Friday morning off, so I can remove the wedge, the front mount and see what I have. Of course, I haven't figured out how to remove the coupler and I have no way to move the engine at the moment.

If I was a bettin man, I would say those screws will not line up given the lateral distance involved.

The shaft looks good thorough the log from the bottom. Slightly closer to the bottom as opposed to the top, but very minor. Good clearance all around.

I agree with you that the shaft will not pass the log when the strut is flush. The angle will be too flat.

Thanks for checking into the struts.

Not sure I mentioned and not sure it matters, but this is the original K to the hull as per the hull card numbers.

Thanks, Steve

Greg Wallace · Post by **Greg Wallace** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:45 am

The earlier pre-2000 hulls used a different strut, shaft log and a shaft that was 12 inches longer. This suggests a change in engine placement at 2001 and as a result a change in angle.

I would also be concerned about shaft length:
Yours should be:

1 X 45" for K-M (47" for 283)

Shaft log should be #6899 and I"ll bet it still is.

Good Luck!

Greg Wallace · Post by **Greg Wallace** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:02 am

Just re-read earlier post. You say your shaft guard is marked as #5847. I'm taking this to mean shaft log and if so may not be correct as #6899 was originally prescribed.

Lets hope this turns out to be compatible.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:31 am

Thanks Greg,

I'll see if I can measure the shaft length tonight. If I shred the hose, I can figure some way.

Heres what I see.

Strut - stamped on the vertical above the cutless starbord side - 5843
Shaft Guard - I refer (maybe incorrectly) to the long piece of casting that connects to the bottom of the strut and runs parellel with the shaft as the shaft guard. Stamped on the port side - 5847 WF.
Shaft Log - the plate on the inside of the boat that connects to the SB? I have not looked closely for a number - is this what you are saying should be 6899? I will look tonight for a number. Hopefully not on bottom.

Thanks, Steve

farupp · Post by **farupp** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:44 am

Steve, the shaft guard is called the skeg.
Frank

Greg Wallace · Post by **Greg Wallace** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:07 am

Steve;
We are now (I think) on the same page. We agree that the Shaft log is the part inside were the shaft goes through the hull and screwed to the keel.

The casting running beneath and paralell to the shaft and connected to the strut is what you are appropriately calling the shaft guard. We always called this the "shoe". Doesn't really manner as long as we arrive at the same place in the end.

This now allows for some optimism that your log is correct. I hope you find the number on the outside and visible but I have also found them underneath on the base requiring removal to verify the number.

Hopefully the correct strut and potentially a shaft will solve your predicament (just add labor, frustration etc.) Regretfully, however, it does present the new issue of securing the correct replacement. Will also involve rubbing more money on your treasure.

Good Luck...again!

PS: Did you notice any damage/repairs to hull in vicinity of strut?

Greg

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:04 pm

Greg, we're on the same page for sure now. Thank you.

It's been fun getting to know the boat. Its puzzles and challenges have been fairly straight forward - making decent progress on limited time. I knew going in that the strut thing could potentially have some teeth. The knowledge and network on this forum is amzing and I'm sure I will get it sorted soon with all the assistance people are providing - thanks eveyone.

The planned contingency fund stands ready and waiting.

If I don't find the casting number on the log I will pull it. Good to confirm that piece of the puzzle.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:07 pm

oh yeah..no damage around vicinity of the strut or forward. Everything looks really good. I too wondered if it had a knock along the way.

jim g · Post by **jim g** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:08 pm

Steve, After looking through the CC parts books I have. Your hull being in the 2200 range is a 1958 model year. You boat should have a 6735 strut on it. Its a skeg strut. See picture. You should have either a 1037 then CC change it to the 6899 shaft log. This is the plate screwed to the keel that the shaft packing box is attached to. The strut you have is the early strut. That means the original probably got bent at some point or a PO wanted the skeg bar. At hull 2000 CC moved the engine back creating a steeper shaft angle which is why they used a different strut. Probably to get the bow to ride higher. The 2 choices you have are. 1. replacing the strut with the correct one or 2. you can make a more solid shim out of oak and use the strut you have. You can drill a new hole through the skeg bar so you can put 2 screws in the bottom. I looked through the used struts I have and I have the early assembly but not the one you need. I can get you the correct strut new which also comes with a new cutless bearing. Send me a PM if your interested in a new strut and I'll send you my phone number.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:52 pm

Jim, mystery solved. Thanks for your help. I will get a PM to you tomorrow.

Steve

Peter M Jardine · Post by **Peter M Jardine** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:23 pm

A question for those SS owners.... is that really how close the shaft is to the stuffing box and coupler?
When I heard paint marks I assumed the motor had been moved, but also because of the very short coupling.

What a pain in the butt that is... you have to pull the shaft and coupler to put new flax in the stuffing box.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:21 pm

Peter, Jim,

I have now confirmed that I also have the early shaft log (1037) to go with my early model strut. Maybe the 1037 was placed where it needed to be and this brought it closer to the engine, but then I don't see old screw holes at the back end - you got me.

There is a good inch of excess hose. Enough room I suspect to get at the packing - just.

Just wondering - depending on how I move forward, is there any way to pull the coupler off that shaft (or vise versa) in place? I have seen a video where a slide hammer is threaded to the prop nut thread and the shaft hammered out. It seemed a bit harsh - wouldn't that be tough on the tranny?

jim g · Post by **jim g** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:21 pm

Sorry, I didn't make it clear on on the shaft logs. CC used both 1037 and 6899 on the later strut. The earlier strut used a different shaft log. So the one you have is correct for your boat. I remove the shafts and install them with the slide hammer set up. It won't hurt the trans. The shaft is suppose to be a press fit into the coupler. You have to remove the shaft from the coupler to get it out. You only need 1/4" to 1/2" of space between the shaft log and stuffing box. If you have more then that shorten the hose up.

Peter, If you think that packing box is close to the coupler you ought to see how close the 17' and 18' runabouts are. Some of them only have 1/2" of space between the coupler and packing box.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 8:27 am

Jim, great. I misread that, thanks for your note.

farupp · Post by **farupp** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:31 am

Steve, below are a couple of pictures of the strut and skeg connection on my Sea Skiff. I hope these are helpful.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 12:39 pm

Nice and neat. Thanks Frank.

Peter M Jardine · Post by **Peter M Jardine** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 6:49 pm

Peter, If you think that packing box is close to the coupler you ought to see how close the 17' and 18' runabouts are. Some of them only have 1/2" of space between the coupler and packing box.

Ouch. I have about six inches on Vanora, and that irks me.

Stuffing Box and strut

Stuffing Box and strut

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